Cleaning And Inspection

Wash all parts except friction discs in cleaning solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

Examine friction discs for:

1. A glazed surface which may be recognized by a smooth, shiny and sometimes darkened appearance.

2. Worn or grooved surface.

3. Lining worn down to rivets.

4. Oil impregnated linings which will sometimes accompany glazing.

5. Cracked or chipped linings.

Glazed and oil soaked discs may sometimes be reconditioned by soaking in white gas for several hours, blowing dry with compressed air and roughing with medium coarse sandpaper. Grooved linings and linings worn down near the rivets must be replaced. Chipped or cracked linings must also be replaced. Badly glazed and burned linings are probably beyond reconditioning and should be replaced.

Steel discs that are grooved or warped should be replaced. Depress steel disc buffer balls with fingertip. If they do not snap back in place, spring is worn and buffer assembly must be replaced.

Figure 4B-3. Positioning Clutch Release Lever (1964 model shown)

1. Clutch actuating lever

2. Clutch cover

3. Push rod adjusting screw

4. Push rod adjusting screw lock nut

5. Clutch lever rod

1. Flat washer

2. Spring collar

3. Spring

4. Clutch hub nut

5. Spring disc (1967 & earlier)

6. Friction discs (1967 &

7. Steel discs (1967 & earlier

8. Spring tension adjusting nuts (3)

9. Outer disc

Figure following name of part indicates quantity necessary for one complete assembly.

Figure 4B-4. Removing Clutch

1. Push rod adjusting screw lock nut

2. Adjusting screw

3. Spring tension adjusting nut (3)

4. Spring collar

6. Outer disc (pressure plate)

7. Spring disc (1967 & earlier)

8. Steel disc (1967 & earlier (3)) (1968 & later (4))

9. Friction disc (1967 & earlier (3)) (1968 & later (5))

10. Clutch shell

11. Clutch hub nut

12. Hub nut lock washer

13. Push rod cork oil seal (1964 & earlier)

Figure following name of part indicates quantity necessary for one complete assembly

14. Clutch hub

15. Clutch hub key

16. Bearing plate spring (3)

17. Bearing plate

18. Bearing retainer

19. Hub nut seal parts

(1964 & earlier) 19A. Hub nut seal (1965 & later)

Figure 4B-5. Clutch Assembly - Exploded View

Check bearing race inside clutch shell. If it appears grooved or pitted, the shell should be replaced.

Revolve clutch hub roller bearing. If it sticks or feels rough, inner bearing race isprobably pitted and should be replaced. Disassemble clutch hub as follows: Remove three bearing plate springs (16), slip bearing plate (17) off huh pins and remove bearing retainer (18). If inner race thus exposed proves to be worn, replace hub.

Clutch springs occasionally set or become fatigued, especially when excessive heat has been produced by operating motorcycle with a slipping clutch. If this has been the case, or if clutch discs are in good condition but it was not possible to obtain a suitable clutch adjustment, check clutch spring free length. Also check spring compression using the Valve Spring Tester, Part No. 96797-47. 1967 and earlier spring free length should be 1-31/64 in., and compression test should be from 42 to 52 pounds at 1-1/8 in. 1968 and later spring free length should be 1-45/64 in. and compression test should be from 30 to 38 lbs. at 1-1/4 in. Replace springs not meeting compression specifications and those with a free length below specified figure, compression testing to near low tolerance range figure.

On 1964 and earlier models, check push rod oil seal spring located inside clutch hub nut with fingertip. If the spring returns both washers to position against shoulder or spring ring, parts (19) are serviceable. On 1965 models, lip type seal (19A) should be inspected and replaced if worn or damaged.

ASSEMBLING CLUTCH (Fig. 4B-5) Assemble clutch in approximate order of disassembly. Revised: 5-68

If parts 1, 2, 4, 5 and 6, have been disassembled, preassemble them on clutch hub as follows: Place clutch releasing disc (6) on hub. Position springs (5) on pins and studs. Place spring collar (4) over springs. Note that stud holes are arranged so it fits in only one position. Turn adjusting screw lock nut on adjusting screw until head is flush, then turn into pressure plate with 1-3/4 in. washer under nut. Remove this assembly from hub.

Place key in slot in mainshaft. Slip clutch hub onto shaft. Install new cork oil seal on clutch push rod. Position washer followed by hub nut. Tighten nut with the special wrench. Strike wrench handle several sharp blows with mallet. Bend over the ear on washer matching hub nut flat. Grease clutch shell bearing and install clutch shell.

Install lined and steel discs in clutch shell, staggering position of steel disc buffers in key slots in shell. Make sure steel discs are installed with side stamped "OUT" facing outward.

Install pressure plate assentSly. Draw down adjusting nut until stud nuts may be started. Turn down stud nut until 1-3/4 in. washer is loose. Remove washer and replace adjusting nut.

Draw down stud nuts evenly until distance from back of pressure plate to front of clutch releasing disc is 31/32 in. for 1967 and earlier models or 1-1/32 in. for 1968 and later models.

Make final adjustments to clutch as described in "Adjusting Clutch Foot Control," or "Adjusting Clinch Hand Control," and "Adjusting Clutch."

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