Chain adjustment must be checked at regular intervals of 1000 miles for rear chain and 2000 miles for front chain. Rear chain requires more frequent attention than front, or primary chain. As chains stretch and wear, they run tighter at one spot than another. Always adjust free movement at tightest spot in chain to allow specified play midway between sprockets. Do not adjust tighter. Running chains too tight will result in excessive wear, particularly on chain tensioner shoe of 1965 and later models.

Inspect chains frequently for cracked, broken, or badly worn links. The rear chain may be taken apart for replacement or repair at the connecting, or master link. The front chain does not have a connecting link. It is necessary to remove the engine sprocket before the chain is removed for replacement. Repair of the rear chain is not recommended. See "Stripping Motorcycle for Engine Repair," Section 3A, for engine sprocket removal.

FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTMENT 1964 and earlier Models:

To adjust front chain loosen four nuts and one cap screw that secure the transmission to its mounting plate and bracket on the right side frame tube. Move the transmission backward or forward by means of the adjusting screw at the rear of the transmission on the right side. Turn adjusting screw clockwise to tighten chain and counterclockwise to loosen chain.

Specified front chain play is 1/2 in. for 1964 & earlier models. When correctly adjusted, tighten the transmission securely to its mounting. Check mounting plate bolts occasionally and keep them tight.

Adjusting front chain requires adjustment of rear chain. Moving the transmission to adjust the front chain may require adjustment of gear shifter and clutch controls. Readjust if necessary (see "Adjusting Clutch Control," Section 4B, and "Adjusting Shifting Linkage," Section 4D). 1965 and later Models (Fig. 2B-1) Remove rear pivot bolt from left footboard and swing rear end of footboard down, away from chain cover. Remove 8 cover attaching screws and remove cover. Front chain tension is adjusted by means of a shoe (1) which is raised or lowered underneath the chain to tighten or loosen it. The shoe support bracket (2) moves up or down in slotted backplate (3) after loosening center bolt (4) in backplate nut. Adjust shoe support as necessary to obtain specified up and down free movement in upper strand of chain, midway between sprockets and retighten bolt securely. Front chain adjustment: 5/8 to 7/8 in. chain slack with cold engine 3/8 to 5/8 in. chain slack with hot engine. Shoe support bracket (2) and outer plate (5) have two sets of shoe attaching holes (A and B) so that entire assembly can be inverted to accommodate various sprocket sizes or chain lengths. To change over, remove center bolt (4), remove two shoe attaching capscrews (6) from set of holes (A), invert shoe and attach to alternate set of holes (B) with capscrews (6). Invert support bracket and outer plate and reattach with center bolt engaged in backplate nut.

Figure 2B-1. Adjusting Front Chain

(1965 and later) Figure 2B-1A. Adjusting Rear Chain

Revised: 9-66 2B-1


Remove the rear axle nut, lock washer, and loosen brake sleeve nut (1) and brake anchor stud nut (4). Loosen the lock nuts on wheel adjusting screws (2). Turn the adjusting screws as necessary to correctly adjust the chain. Turfi each screw (3) an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel in alignment. Check correct alignment of the wheel to see that the tire runs in center of rear fork and also that the rear sprocket runs centrally in the chain. Specified rear chain play is 1/2 in. When readjustment is completed, be sure to securely tighten the sleeve nut, anchor stud nut, axle nut, and adjusting screw lock nuts in that order.

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