Cleaning And Inspection

Wash all parts except friction discs in cleaning solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

Examine friction discs for:

1. A glazed surface which may be recognized by a smooth, shiny and sometimes darkened appearance.

2. Worn or grooved surface.

3. Lining worn down to 1/32 in. or less.

4 Oil impregnated linings which will sometimes accompany glazing.

5 Cracked or chipped linings.

Glazed and oil soaked linings may sometimes be reconditioned by soaking in solvents of various types for several hours, blowing dry with compressed air and roughing with medium coarse sandpaper. This procedure may not be successful because oil retained in pores of lining material may come to the surface due to heat developed during normal use. Grooved linings and excessively worn linings must be replaced. Chipped or cracked linings must also be replaced. Badly glazed and burned linings are probably beyond reconditioning and should be replaced.

Steel discs that are grooved or warped should be replaced. Depress steel disc buffer balls with fingertip. If they do not snap back in place, spring is worn and buffer assembly must be replaced.

Check bearing race inside clutch shell. If it appears grooved or pitted, the shell should be replaced.

Revolve clutch hub roller bearing. If it sticks or feels rough, inner bearing race is probably pitted and should be replaced. Disassemble clutch hub as follows:

Remove three bearing plate springs (14), slip bearing plate (15) off hub pins and remove bearing retainer (16). If inner race thus exposed proves to be worn, replace hub.

Clutch springs occasionally set or become fatigued, especially when excessive heat has been produced by operating motorcycle with a slipping clutch. If this has been the case, or if clutch discs are in good condition but it was not possible to obtain a suitable clutch adjustment, check clutch spring free length Also check spring compression using the Valve Spring Tester, Part No. 96797-47. Spring free length should be 1-45/64 in. and compression tesi should be from 30 to 38 lbs. at 1 -1/4 in. Replace springs noi meeting compression specifications and those with a free length below specified figure, compression testing to near low tolerance range figure.

Lip type seal (18) should be inspected and replaced if worn or damaged.

ASSEMBLING CLUTCH (Figure 4-4)

Assemble clutch in approximate order of disassembly

If parts 1, 2, 4, 5 and 6, have been disassembled, preas-semble them on clutch hub as follows: Place clutch releasing disc (6) on hub. Position springs (5) on pins and studs. Place spring collar (4) over springs. Note that stud holes are arranged so it fits in only one position. Turn adjusting screw locknut on adjusting screw until head is flush, then turn into pressure plate with 1-3/4 in. washer under nut. Remove this assembly from hub.

Place key in slot in mainshaft. Slip clutch hub onto shaft. Install new oil seal in clutch hub nut. Position lockwasher followed by hub nut. Tighten nut to 50 to 60 ft-lbs torque. Bend over the ear on washer matching hub nut flat. Grease clutch shell bearing and install clutch shell.

Install lined and steel discs in clutch shell, staggering position of steel disc buffers in key slots in shell. Make sure steel discs are installed with side stamped "OUT" facing outward.

Install pressure plate assembly. Draw down adjusting nut until stud nuts may be started. Turn down stud nut until 1 -3/4 in. washer is loose. Remove washer and replace adjusting nut.

Draw down stud nuts evenly until distance from back of pressure plate to front of clutch releasing disc is 1 -1/32 in.

Make final adjustments to clutch as described in "Adjusting Clutch Foot Control," or "Adjusting Clutch Hand Control," and "Adjusting Clutch."

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