General

Chain adjustment must be checked at regular intervals of 1000 miles for rear chain and 2000 miles for front chain. Rear chain requires more frequent attention than front, or primary chain. As chains stretch and wear, they run tighter at one spot than another. Always adjust free movement at tightest spot in chain to allow specified play midway between sprockets. Do not adjust tighter. Running chains too tight will result in excessive wear.

Inspect chains frequently for cracked, broken, or badly worn links. The rear chain may be taken apart for replacement or repair at the connecting, or master link. The front chain does not have a connecting link. It is necessary to remove the engine sprocket before the chain is removed for replacement. Repair of the front chain is not recommended. See "Stripping Motorcycle for Engine Repair," Section 3, for engine sprocket removal.

FRONT CHAIN ADJUSTMENT (Figure 2-1)

Remove rear pivot bolt from left footboard and swing rear end of footboard down, away from chain cover. Remove 8 cover attaching screws and remove cover. Front chain tension is adjusted by means of a shoe (1) which is raised or lowered underneath the chain to tighten or loosen it. The shoe support bracket (2) moves up or down in slotted back-plate (3) after loosening center bolt (4) in backplate nut. Adjust shoe support as necessary to obtain specified up and down free movement in upper strand of chain, midway between sprockets and retighten bolt securely.

Front chain adjustment:

5/8 to 7/8 in. chain slack with cold engine

3/8 to 5/8 in. chain slack with hot engine.

Shoe support bracket (2) and outer plate (5) have two sets of shoe attachi ng holes (A and B) so that entire assembly can be inverted to accommodate various sprocket sizes or chain lengths. To change over, remove center bolt (4), remove two shoe attaching capscrews (6) from set of holes (A), invert shoe and attach to alternate set of holes (B) with capscrews (6). Invert support bracket and outer plate and reattach with center bolt engaged in backplate nut.

REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT - 1972 AND EARLIER (Figure 2-2)

Remove the rear axle nut, lockwasher, and loosen brake sleeve nut (1) and brake anchor stud nut (4). Loosen the locknuts on wheel adjusting screws (2). Turn the adjusting screws as necessary to correctly adjust the chain. Turn each screw (3) an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel in alignment. Check correct alignment of the wheel to see that the tire runs in center of rear fork and also that the rear sprocket runs centrally in the chain. Specified rear chain play is 1/2 in. When readjustment is completed, be sure to securely tighten the sleeve nut, anchor stud nut, axle nut, and adjusting screw locknuts in that order.

Figure 2-1. Adjusting Front Chain

Figure 2-2. Adusting Rear Chain (1972 and Earlier)

REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT - 1973 AND LATER (Figure 2-2A)

Remove cotter pin (1) and loosen brake anchor castle nut (2). Loosen axle nut (3). Turn adjusting nuts (4) as necessary to move axle and correctly readjust the chain. Turn each nut an equal number of turns in order to keep wheel in alignment. To move axle (5) forward it will be necessary to tap lightly on ends of studs.

1. Cotter pin

2. Brake anchor nut

3. Axle nut

4. Axle adjusting nuts

5. Rear axle

6. Rear chain

Figure 2-2A. Adjusting Rear Chain

A correctly adjusted rear chain should have 1 /2 in. free play up and down movement half way between transmission sprocket and rear wheel sprocket. Check correct alignment of the wheel to see that the tire runs about midway between rear fork and also that the rear sprocket runs centrally in the chain.

When readjustment is completed, tighten axle nut (3) to 50 ft-lbs torque. Tighten brake anchor nut (1) to 50 ft-lbs torque. Install cotter pin (2).

0 0

Post a comment