Figure 5-24. Testing Battery Capacity


Never allow a battery to stand in a discharged condition. Start charging it at once at the recommended continuous charge rate. Be sure charger is properly connected and adjusted observing positive (+) and negative (-) polarity to battery.

To determine the amount or condition of a battery charge, check solution in each cell with a battery hydrometer. When hydrometer reading is 1.200 or less, battery is considered discharged and should be removed from motorcycle and charged at the following maximum continuous charge rate, using appropriate 12 volt charger.

12 volt 7 ampere hour battery — 1.5 amperes 12 volt 32 ampere hour battery — 4 amperes

A higher battery charge rate will heat and damage the battery. For this reason, do not allow the small motorcycle battery to be charged in the same line with large batteries. Hydrometer reading of a fully charged battery in good condition, with full strength electrolyte will be 1.270 or higher.

WAHNINCi — hydrogen gas, tormed when charging, is explosive. Avoid open flame or electrical spark near battery.

Allowing a battery to remain in a discharged condition will shorten its life. It is important that a battery be kept well charged during below freezing weather.


If a battery has been allowed to stand in a discharged condition for a period of time, the lead sulphate in the plates will crystallize and not take a charge at normal rates. Such batteries should be charged at half the specified continuous rate for twice the computed time. A longer charging time at a slower rate will many times break down the crystalline structure into active materials and restore the battery.


In normal service with average care, it is never necessary to change electrolyte for the lifetime of the battery. However, if the battery solution is spilled, diluted as a result of careless water addition, or neutralized by the addition of an alkaline substance, the battery solution may be changed and in some cases near full capacity restored.

A weak acid solution may be detected by charging the battery until all cells gas freely and the gravity has not shown a rise for three successive readings taken at hourly intervals. "Gassing" is evidenced by a bubbling action in the electrolyte that may be detected by sight or sound. Do not change electrolyte in a battery with one or more cells that fail to gas. Such a condition indicates a structural failure.

Pour solution out of charged battery and fill with water. Charge battery again until maximum specific gravity is reached. Pour out this solution and add prepared battery electrolyte to specified level and charge again for a short length of time for full capacity.

Check specific gravity and add a little water if necessary to bring solution down to desired maximum limits.

The value of changing electrolyte in a fairly old battery is questionable. By tipping over such a battery to drain the solution, the sloughed-off waste materials accumulated by repeated charging and discharging actions might be dislodged from the sediment chambers in the bottom of the battery and deposited in the separators. This material is an electrical conductor and thus may "tree" or catch in the separators and cause a short circuit.



Horn is shown in figure 5-25. If the horn fails to blow or does not blow satisfactorily, check for loose, frayed or damaged wiring leading to horn terminals, discharged battery, etc. If these steps do not correct the trouble, turn in contact point adjusting screw, located back of horn, until horn just gives a single click — then retard screw until best tone is obtained. If horn fails to operate after moving adjusting screw, entire horn must be replaced because it is permanently riveted together. Mounting parts are replaceable.



The starter motor is a 12-volt, series field 4-pole drive motor which engages the clutch ring gear through a Bendix type drive and a reduction gear unit. A solenoid relay provides battery current directly to the motor. The solenoid is controlled by a button switch on the handlebar.


Starter motor should never be operated continuously for more than 30 seconds without pausing to let it cool for at least two minutes. The motor is not designed for continuous operation and serious damage may result.



The starter motor is designed to be corrosion resistant and requires very little maintenance. However, to ensure satisfactory operation, periodic inspection of brushes and commutator should be made.

In the event starter motor fails to operate satisfactorily, the following checks should be made before removing motor for inspection:


Make sure the mounting and wiring connections are tight and in good condition. The solenoid switch should be

Figure 5-25. Horn


firmly mounted and all wiring connections should be clean and tight. Also inspect the connections to the battery and return circuit, as loose or dirty connections anywhere in the circuit will cause high resistance and reduced motor efficiency.


If the connections and wiring are found to be satisfactory, the battery should be checked to determine its state of charge (see "Charging Battery"). If the battery is charged and battery voltage is reaching the motor without any excessive losses in wiring or connections, the trouble may be attributed to either the engine or the starter motor itself.


If the battery is charged but there is no current flow to motor at all, trouble is probably in handlebar button switch, RUN-OFF switch, or the solenoid switch. This can be determined by by-passing each switch with a heavy jumper (refer to "Wiring Diagram.")


Excessive friction in the engine from tight bearings or pistons or from heavy oil obviously makes engine harder to crank. However, if engine is known to be in normal condition and the rest of the starting system is satisfactory, the starter motor should be removed for further checking.


Electrical tests to locate cause of starting system failures can be made using the Sun VAT-26® Tester or equivalent and applicable Service Bulletins.

2. Bracket

3. Horn


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