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on a grinder, maintaining original pad curve. Worn and flattened ball studs must be replaced, otherwise satisfactory tappet and push rod adjustment cannot be made and upper end push rod trouble is likely to be experienced.

Oil seals and oil seal retaining washers must be assembled on rocker arms before arms are installed in housings.

1940 and earlier Models: One ¡of the larger oil seals has no fabric on either side and is to be installed on rear exhaust rocker arm, either side of seal facing ball stud end. The three remaining larger oil seals are to be installed on rocker arms with fabric side of seal facing ball stud end. This method of installing oil seals supersedes the earlier method of installing them with fabric side of seal against end of spring cover. The smaller oil seal is to he-installed on rear exhaust rocker arm with cuppecTside of seal facing ball stud end.

Install on rear exhaust rocker arm (ball stud end) in order named—larger oil seal (58) (no fabric), larger oil seal retaining washer (57), smaller oil seal (56) and smaller oil seal retaining washer (55). The three remaining larger oil seals and seal retaining washers are to be installed on rocker arms in same order as larger oil seal and retaining washer are installed on rear exhaust rocker arm.

1941 to 1947 Models: The four oil seals are alike and are to be installed on rocker arms with fabric side of seal facing ball stud end. This method of installing oil seals supersedes the earlier method of installing them with fabric side of seal against end of spring cover.

Install on each rocker arm (ball stud end) in order named—oil seal (42) and oil seal retaining washer

All O.H.V. Models: Rocker arm thrust washers

(44) and (48) must be located, one in each counter-bore in aluminum housings before installing rocker arms and shafts. The shoulder or stepped side of

~^washer must face rocker arm? If washers are not in plSce",- spacing between aluminum housings and rocker arm shaft brackets will not be right and one or more brackets will probably be snapped off, when shaft nuts are tightened.

After rocker arms, oil seals and rocker arm shafts have been assembled in housings, apply a thin coat of gasket cement or sealer on under side of aluminum housings where they rest on cylinder heads and also on outer face of oil seals where they come in contact with ends of spring covers. This will insure against possibility of oil leakage around oil passage plugs and ends of spring covers.

Attach aluminum housings with assembled rocker arms to cylinder heads. Drive rocker arm shafts very carefully into shaft brackets. Do not force them as it does not take a very heavy blow with a hammer to break a bracket. If shafts are drifted evenly into brackets to avoid "cocking" the assembly, they will go in easily.

Install spacers or plain washers temporarily (in place of cylinder head bracket) on left end of each intake rocker arm shaft next to shaft bracket to take up space. The total thickness of the spacers or plain washers for each intake rocker arm shaft must be from 9/32" to 5/16" to equal thickness of cylinder head bracket and washers that are to be installed later.

Install the plain washers (46), one on right end of each rocker arm shaft next to aluminum housings, and a lock washer (31) on left end of each exhaust rocker arm shaft next to shaft bracket. Install all shaft nuts and tighten them evenly and securely to imbed ends of spring covers in oil seals.

Now that all shaft nuts are securely tightened, and width of the assembly determined, see that holes line up so that cap screws securing housing to cylinder head can be installed without any binding. The longer screws (39) and (53) and lock washers are to be installed from under side and shorter screw (36) and lock washer are to be installed from top. If screws will not enter freely then something is wrong and they should not be forced into place. In this case inspection should be made to see that rocker arm thrust washers are in place. If everything seems to be in order but holes are slightly misaligned, they can be elongated with a round file to permit entering screws.

Following this procedure in securing aluminum housings is also of prime importance because if spacing and alignment are not correct and screws and nuts are pulled up tight, rocker arm brackets will be under stress and breakage will probably result.

After head assemblies are tightened up, and before cover plates are installed, note that rocker arms are not pinched endways. This is not likely to be found the case, especially when using old rocker arms, but it is possible.

If it is found there is binding endways, rocker arm will have to be shortened by grinding off either end slightly. Rocker arm should have .007" to .016" side-play to allow for possibility of assembly closing up a little as rocker arm shaft nuts are loosened and tightened later on.

Determining whether or not there is end play and how much, is not so easy with an assembly just put up with new oil seals, as new seals pinch rocker arms and make them work hard as though they were a tight fit on shaft or were tight endways. This will have to be considered when determining end clearance.

Install valves. See "Installing Valve Assemblies," Page 48.

If cover plate gaskets are in good condition they can be reused, however, it is advisable to renew them. Apply a thin coat of gasket cement or sealer on underside of cover plate gaskets (3) and (19) and after allowing a few minutes for cement or sealer to air dry, install them on covers so holes line up. Now apply a thin coat of cement or sealer to top side of cover plate gaskets.

Now that assembly has been completed and rocker arm endplay checked to make sure there is no binding, install cover plates (2) and (17).

One method of installing cover plates is to use two tapered rods and insert them through screw holes to align plates so screws can be entered straight and not become cross threaded.

An easier method is to again loosen rocker arm and housing assemblies, that is, remove cap screws that secure aluminum housings, and also remove nuts on left ends of rocker arm shafts and drift the assembly away from ends of spring covers about Yb". Install cover plates and tighten screws securely, then drift assembly back in place and replace and tighten shaft nuts, and cap screws in aluminum housings, as explained in a previous paragraph.

After cylinder heads have been completely assembled, remove the spacers or plain washers from right end of each intake rocker arm shaft. Cylinder head bracket cannot be installed until after engine is in chassis.

Cam Gear Shaft and Pinion Gear Shaft Bushings (O.H.V. Engine)

Check cam gear shaft bushing in right side crank-case, and cam gear shaft bushing and pinion gear shaft bushing in gear case cover for extent of wear. These bushings normally do not require renewal until an engine has rim extremely high mileage. However, if engine has been run under dusty conditions without an air cleaner, or without giving proper attention to air cleaner if engine is so equipped, and considerable road dust has been taken into engine through carburetor, abnormal wear may be found at any mileage.

Specified clearance for cam gear shaft in cover bushing and crankcase bushing is .001" to .0015", and for pinion gear shaft in cover bushing is .0005" to .001". When bushings are worn to the extent of increasing clearance to .0025" or more, they should be renewed, as the cam gear is likely to become noisy with excessive clearance in these bushings. Worn bushing in case can be pushed out with an arbor press, supporting case on a suitable collar or sleeve at flanged end of bushing. Bushings in cover, must be pulled with Harley-Davidson special puller, Part No. 11952-36 (see Illus. 42, applying to Side Valve Engine).

Before removing old bushings, note location of oil transfer hole in pinion gear shaft bushing in timing gear case cover. New bushing must be installed with oil transfer hole in same location (transfer hole to line up with drilled oil passage in cover) as normal function of oiling system depends upon correct lscation of this hole. The cam gear shaft bushing in crankcase must be installed with oil slot in flange end of bushing upward.

Before pressing in new bushings note location of original dowel pin holes in crankcase and/or gear case cover for reference when drilling new dowel pin holes. When drilling dowel pin holes in crankcase and/or gear case cover, be sure to locate holes Va" or more from original dowel pin holes.

When pressing in bushings be sure bushing flanges are seated tight against crankcase and/or gear case cover.

After new bushings have been pressed in they must be dowel pinned to prevent them from turning.

by drilling a hole with a number 31 drill, 9/32" deep, through bushing flange and into aluminum so when dowel pin (Part No. 661-31) is driven in and bottomed, its end will be slightly below face of bushing flange. Peen bushing around dowel pin hole to prevent pin from coming out.

Oil hole for lubrication of cam shaft bushing in cover, will have to be drilled, with a 5/32" drill, using oil hole already in bushing boss as a drill guide.

After bushings have been pressed in, dowel pinned and necessary oil hole drilled, they must be line reamed with Harley-Davidson special reamers. Part Nos. 12134-36 and 12132-36. Cover must be installed and secured by at least four screws when line reaming bushings.

Line reaming pinion gear shaft bushing: Insert steel pilot bushing into crankcase roller race—insert Harley-Davidson special reamer. Part No. 12132-36, through pilot bushing, into pinion gear shaft bushing, and turn reamer until it bottoms in gear case cover. See Illus. 46.

Line reaming cam gear shaft bushings: Insert Harley-Davidson special reamer. Part No. 12134-36, through crankcase bushing, into cover bushing, and turn reamer until it bottoms in gear case cover. (See Illus. 44, applying to Side Valve Engine).

Servicing Flutter Valve (Side Valve Engine)

(To Identify Items, Refer to Illus. 4 and 59)

Flutter valve (5) in gear case cover allows retrieving (by vacuum) any oil trapped in outside breather oil trap (10).

It is a disc type valve and has only a few thousandths movement. In order for this valve to function properly, it must be free working. A sticking valve will probably result in outside breather oil trap filling with oil to the extent that some oil will be blown out through outside breather tube (11), causing a messy condition around engine.

With flutter valve installed in cover, it can be checked as to its proper functioning by sucking and blowing through valve opening. If valve is functioning, it will open (admit air) when sucking, and close (shut off air) when blowing. It is, however, recommended that a new flutter valve be installed at each engine overhaul, regardless of its condition.

To install new flutter valve, first remove outside breather tube (11), then drive out valve with suitable punch inserted in hole that terminates in outside breather oil trap (10). Drive in new valve using a punch slightly smaller than outside diameter of valve housing. Do not, under any circumstances, use a punch inserted in valve opening as doing so will damage valve. After valve has been driven in and seated, stake it in place by upsetting aluminum at four equidistant points at edge of hole, with a small punch.

Cam Gear Shaft and Pinion Gear Shaft Bushings (Side Valve Engine)

Check cam gear shaft bushings in right side crankcase and cam gear shaft and pinion gear shaft bushings in gear case cover for extent of wear. These bushings normally do not require renewal until an engine has run extremely high mileage. However, if engine has been run under dusty conditions without an air cleaner, or without giving proper atttention to air cleaner if engine is so equipped, and con-

gear shaft*bushing shaft bushing front inlet cam gear

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DIY Battery Repair

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