Installation

8 Check that the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and crankcase are free from oil or pieces of old gasket. If removed, fit the dowels into the crankcase.

9 Remove the rags from around the pistons, and lay the new base gasket in place on the crankcase making sure all the holes are correctly aligned. Never re-use the old gasket.

10 If required, install piston ring clamps onto the pistons to ease their entry into the bores as the block is lowered. This is not essential as each cylinder has a good lead-in enabling the piston rings to be hand-fed into the bore. If possible, have an assistant support the block while this is done.

11 Lubricate the cylinder bores, pistons and piston rings, and the connecting rod big- and

15.4 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and remove the cover

15 Starter clutch and idle/

reduction gear - removal, Sjk inspection and installation ^

Note: The starter clutch can be removed with the engine in the frame. If the engine has been removed, ignore the steps which don't apply.

1 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).

2 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

3 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Trace the ignition pulse generator wiring from the left-hand side of the engine and disconnect it at the red 4-pin connector (J and K models) or brown 2-pin connector (L, N and R models) (see illustrations 5.12a and b). Release the wiring from any clips or ties, and feed it through to the cover, noting its routing.

15.7 Withdraw the shaft and remove the gear

15.8 Check the starter clutch as described

15.6a Unscrew the bolt and remove the timing rotor (arrowed)...

4 Unscrew the bolts securing the starter clutch cover and remove the cover, being prepared to catch any residue oil (see illustration). Discard the gasket as a new one must be used. Remove the dowel from either the cover or the crankcase if it is loose.

5 To slacken the timing rotor/starter clutch bolt the engine must be prevented from turning. If the engine is still in the frame, select a gear and have an assistant apply the rear brake. If the engine has been removed, remove the clutch/alternator cover from the right-hand side of the engine (see Section 16) and hold the alternator rotor using a rotor strap.

Caution: Do not hold the rotor using a socket on the rotor bolt as it could become loose.

6 Unscrew the bolt and remove the washer and the timing rotor (see illustration). Draw the starter clutch off the end of the crankshaft, and remove the splined thrust washer from behind it (see illustration). Note how the wider grooves in the timing rotor, starter clutch and thrust washer fit over the wider spline on the shaft.

7 Withdraw the starter Idle/reduction gear shaft from the centre of the gear, then remove the gear, noting how it fits (see illustration).

Inspection

8 With the starter clutch face-down on a workbench, check that the starter driven gear rotates freely In an anti-clockwise direction

15.9 Withdraw the gear and bearing ...
15.6b ... then slide the starter clutch off

and locks against the rotor In a clockwise direction (see illustration). If it doesn't, renew the starter clutch.

9 Withdraw the needle roller bearing and starter driven gear from the starter clutch (see illustration). If the gear appears stuck, rotate it anti-clockwise as you withdraw it to free it from the starter clutch.

10 Check the condition of the rollers inside the clutch body (see illustration). If they are damaged, marked or flattened at any point, the starter clutch should be renewed -individual components are not available.

11 Check the bearing surface of the starter driven gear hub and the needle roller bearing. If the bearing surface shows signs of excessive wear or the or the bearing itself is worn or damaged, they should be renewed.

12 Check the teeth of the starter idle/ reduction gear and the corresponding teeth of the starter driven gear and starter motor drive shaft. Renew the gears and/or starter motor if worn or chipped teeth are discovered on related gears. Also check the idle/reduction gear shaft for damage, and check that the gear is not a loose fit on the shaft. Renew the shaft if necessary.

Installation

13 Lubricate the hub of the starter driven gear with clean engine oil, then Install the starter driven gear into the clutch, rotating it anti-clockwise as you do so to spread the rollers and allow the hub of the gear to enter

15.10 ... and check the rollers (two arrowed)

15.18a Locate the gasket over the dowel (arrowed)... 15.18b ... and Install the cover

. and tighten it to the specified torque

15.18a Locate the gasket over the dowel (arrowed)... 15.18b ... and Install the cover

(see illustration 15.9). Fit the needle roller bearing into the driven gear.

14 Lubricate the idle/reduction gear shaft with clean engine oil. Position the gear, making sure the teeth of the larger pinion mesh correctly with the teeth of the starter motor shaft, then slide the shaft into the gear (see illustration 15.7).

15 Slide the splined thrust washer onto the end of the crankshaft, aligning the wider groove in the washer with the wider spline on the shaft (see Illustration).

16 Slide the starter clutch assembly onto the end of the crankshaft, aligning the wider groove in the starter clutch with the wider spline on the shaft (see Illustration).

17 Slide the timing rotor onto the end of the crankshaft, aligning the wider groove in the rotor with the wider spline on the shaft (see illustration). Install the timing rotor/starter clutch bolt and its washer and, using the method employed on removal to stop the engine turning, tighten the bolt to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter (see illustrations). If preferred, a socket or spanner on the alternator rotor bolt can now be used to hold the engine, as the counter-effect of tightening the starter clutch bolt will now be to tighten the alternator bolt,

rather than loosen it. The torque setting for the alternator bolt is the same on J and K models and higher on L, N and R models, so there should be no danger of stripping it.

18 If removed, insert the dowel in the crankcase, then install the cover using a new gasket, making sure it locates correctly onto the dowel and the idle/reduction gear shaft (see illustration). Tighten the cover bolts evenly in a criss-cross sequence to the specified torque setting.

19 Feed the pulse generator coil wiring back to its connector, making sure it is correctly routed.

and reconnect it (see illustrations 5.12a and b). Install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).

20 Refill the engine with oil (see Chapter 1).

21 Install the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).

16 Clutch - removal, inspection ^ and installation ^

Note: The clutch can be removed with the engine in the frame. If the engine has been removed, ignore the steps which don't apply.

. and tighten it to the specified torque

16.5 Clutch cover bolts (arrowed) - two cable bracket bolts 16.6 Unscrew the bolts (arrowed) and remove the plate and already removed springs

16.7a Unstake the nut (arrowed)... Removal

1 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).

2 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

3 Unscrew the two bolts securing the clutch cable bracket to the alternator/clutch cover on the right-hand side of the engine, then free the cable end from the release lever (see illustrations 17.2a and b). Position the cable clear of the engine.

4 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Trace the alternator wiring from the alternator/clutch cover and disconnect it at the white (J and K models) or red (L, N and R models) 3-pin connector (see illustrations 5.11a and b). Release the wiring from any clips or ties, noting its routing, and feed it through to the cover.

5 Unscrew the cover bolts and remove the cover, being prepared to catch any residual oil (see illustration). Discard the gasket as a new one must be used. Remove the two dowels from either the cover or the crankcase if they are loose. Note the pushrod fitted in the bottom of the shaft in the cover and remove it for safekeeping if required (see illustration 16.34). It is possible that it is stuck to the release bearing in the centre of the clutch release plate.

6 Working evenly in a criss-cross pattern, gradually slacken the clutch release plate bolts until spring pressure is released, then remove the bolts, plate and springs (see illustration).

7 The clutch nut is staked against the transmission input shaft (see illustration). Unstake the nut using a screwdriver, a punch, or a small drill. To slacken the clutch nut the input shaft must be locked. This can be done in several ways:

a) If the engine is in the frame, engage 1st gear and have an assistant hold the rear brake on hard with the rear tyre in firm contact with the ground.

b) Use the Honda service tool, available from a dealer.

c) A home-made tool made from two strips of steel bent at the ends and bolted together in the middle (see Tool tip), can be used to stop the clutch centre from turning whilst the nut is slackened (see illustration).

d) If the engine is out of the frame, fit a close-fitting ring spanner or socket over the output shaft splines, select top gear and hold the spanner or socket while the nut is slackened.

16.7b ... and slacken it as described

APPRO* 2PT

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Responses

  • benjamin
    How to remove starter clutch on cbr400?
    2 years ago
  • rita burch
    How does the clutch rod work from the clutch plate into the clutch on a CBR 400?
    11 months ago

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