Final drive oil

Refer to illustration 3.22

Warning: Be sure the exhaust system is cool before starting this procedure. You'll be working close to the right muffler and touching it may cause serious burns.

3.22 Final drive filler plug (left arrow) and drain plug (right arrow)
Filler Plug Battery

4.3 Battery electrolyte level can be seen through the battery case; it should be between the Upper level and Lower level marks

22 Place the motorcycle on Its centerstand. Clean any dirt from around the filler plug, then unscrew the filler plug from the right side of the final dnve (see illustration). Look or reach into the filler hole and note the oil level. It should be up to the bottom of the hole.

23 If the oil level is low. add oil of tho typo recommended In this Chapter's Specifications, using a funnel with a flexible tube if necessary.

24 Thread the filler plug into the hole and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

4 Battery electrolyte level/specific gravity - check

Refer to illustrations 4.3. 4.6 and 4.11

Caution: Be extremely careful when handling or working around the battery. The electrolyte is very caustic and an explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when the battery is charging. Note: The first Steps describe battery removal. If the electrolyte level ts known to be sufficient it won't be necessary to remove the battery.

1 This procedure applies to batteries that have removable filler caps, which can be removed to add water to the battery. This type is original equipment on the motorcycles covered in this manual. The sealed maintonance-freo batteries used on some models can't be topped up.

2 Remove the teft side cover for access to the battery (see Chapter 8).

3 The electrolyte level is visible through the translucent battery case. It should be between the Upper and Lower level marks (soo illustration).

4 If the electrolyte is low, remove the ceii caps and fill each cell to the upper level mark with distilled water. Do not use tap water (except In an emergency), and do not overfill. The cell holes are quite small, so it may help to use a plastic squeeze bottle with a small spout to add the water. If the level is within the marks on the case, additional water is not necessary.

5 Next, chock the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell with a small hydrometer made especially for motorcycle batteries. These are available from most dealer parts departments or motorcycle accessory stores.

6 Remove the caps, draw some electrolyte from the first cell Into the hydrometer (see illustration) and note the specific gravity. Compare the reading to the Specifications listed in this Chapter. Note: Add 0.004 pants to the reading for every 10-degrees F above 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) - subtract 0.004 points from the reading for every 10-degrees below 20-degrees C (68-degrees F). Return the electrolyte to the appropriate cell and repeat the check for the remaining cells. When the check is complete, rinse the hydrometer thoroughly with clean water.

7 If the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each ceil is as specified, the battery is in good condition and Is apparently being charged by the machine's charging system.

8 If the specific gravity is low, the battery is not fuHy charged. This may be due to corroded battery terminals, a dirty battery case, a malfunctioning charging system, or loose or corroded wiring connections. On the other hand, it may be that the battery is worn out, especially f the machine is old, or that infrequent use of the motorcycle prevents normal charging from taking place.

9 Be sure to correct any problems and charge the battery if necessary. Refer to Chapter 9 for additional battery maintenance and charging procedures.

10 Install the battery cell caps, tightening them securely.

11 Make sure the battery vent tube is secure in its retainer (see illustration). Be very careful not to pinch or otherwise restrict the battery vent tube, as the battery may build up enough internal pressure during normal charging system operation to explode. Refer to the vent tube routing decal on the motorcycle to make sure the vent tube is routed correctly (soo illustration 1.3b).

12 Install the side cover.

4.11 The battery vent tube slips over a fitting on the battery case; it's secured by a grommot to a bracket on tho battery boxs

4.6 Check the specific gravity with a hydrometer

5.2a Inspect the groove between the friction material and the 5.2b ... If the friction material is worn near the groove (arrow), metal backing (arrow) (this is a front pad)... replace the pads (this is a rear pad)

5.2a Inspect the groove between the friction material and the 5.2b ... If the friction material is worn near the groove (arrow), metal backing (arrow) (this is a front pad)... replace the pads (this is a rear pad)

6.3 Pull back the rubber cover and check 6.6 Hold the switch body and turn the nut 7.1 Pedal height should be the specified the hose fitting for leaks (arrow) to adjust the switch distance from the top of the footpeg; to adjust pedal height, loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting rod (arrow) (hiddon behind pedal brackot)

5 Brake pads - wear check

Refer to illustrations 5.2a and 5.2b

1 The front and rear brake pads should be checked at the recommended Intervals and replaced with new ones when worn beyond the limit listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

2 To check the brake pads, iook at them from the edges (see illustrations). There's a small gap between the edge of the friction material and the metal backing. If the friction material Is worn near or all the way to the gap. the pads are worn excessively and must be replaced with new ones (see Chapter 7).

6 Brake system - general check

Refer to illustrations 6.3 and 6.6

1 A routine general check of the brakes will ensure that any problems are discovered and remedied before the rider's safety is jeopardized.

2 Check the brake leve»- and pedal for loose connections, excessive play, bends, and other damage. Replace any damaged parts with new ones (see Chapter 7).

3 Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. Check the brake pads for wear (see Section 5) and make sure the fluid level in the reservoirs is correct (see Section 3). Look for leaks at the hose connections and check for cracks in the hoses (soe illustration). If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed the brakes as described in Chapter 7.

4 Make sure the brake light operates when the brake lever is depressed. The front brake light switch is not adjustable. If it doesn't work, check and replace it if necessary (see Chapter 9).

5 Press the brake pedal and make sure the brake light is activated just as the brake takes effect.

6 If adjustment is necessary, remove the right chamber protector and inner cover (see Chapter 8). Hold the switch and turn the adjusting nut on the switch body (seo illustration) until the brake light is activated when required (don't turn the switch bcdy). If the switch doesn't operate the brake lights, check it as described in Chapter 9.

7 Brake pedal position - check and adjustment

Refer to illustration 7.1

1 The rear brake pedal should be positioned above the top of the original equipment footpeg the distance listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). Note: If the stock footpegs have been replaced with floorboards (a common aftermarkot accessory), adjust the poital height so there's no brake drag.

9.4 To make major adjustments, loosen the locknut (right arrow) and turn the adjuster (left arrow)

9.3 To make minor throttle cable adjustments, loosen the locknut (left arrow) and turn the adjuster (right arrow)

8.2 Measure tread depth; if the raised wear indicators (arrow) are even with the troad surface, tho tiro needs to be replaced

8.4 Use an accurate gauge to check the 9.2 Chock for a small amount of freeplay air pressure in the tiros at the throttle grip (arrows)

2 To adjust the position of the pedal, loosen the locknut on the adjuster, turn the adjuster to set the pedal position and tighten the locknut.

3 If necessary, adjust the brake light switch (see Section 6).

8 Tires/wheels - general check

\ Routine tire and wheel checks should be made with the realiza-: on that your safety depends to a great extent on their condition.

2 Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessively worn tires is extremely hazardous, as traction and handling are directly affected. Measure the tread depth at the center of the tire and replace worn tires with new ones when the tread depth is less than specified (see illustration).

3 Repair or replace punctured tires as soon as damage is noted. Do not try to patch a torn tire, as wheel balance and tire reliability may be impaired.

4 Check the tire pressures when the tires are cold and keep them properly inflated (see illustration). Proper air pressure will Increase tire l fe and provide maximum stability and ride comfort. Keep in mind that low tire pressures may cause the tire to slip on the rim or come off. while high tire pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling.

5 The cast wheels used on this machine are virtually maintenance free, but they should be kept clean and checked periodically for cracks and other damage. Never attempt to repair damaged cast wheels: they must be replaced with new ones.

6 Check the valve stem lockouts to make sure they are tight. Also, make sure the valve stem cap is in place and tight, if It ¡s missing, install a new one mado of metal or hard plastic.

9.3 To make minor throttle cable adjustments, loosen the locknut (left arrow) and turn the adjuster (right arrow)

8.2 Measure tread depth; if the raised wear indicators (arrow) are even with the troad surface, tho tiro needs to be replaced

8.4 Use an accurate gauge to check the 9.2 Chock for a small amount of freeplay air pressure in the tiros at the throttle grip (arrows)

9 Throttle and choke operation and freeplay - check and adjustment

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DIY Battery Repair

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