Kawasaki Z1000 Levers -china -0086 -86

Table of Contents

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing 17-2

Troubleshooting Guide 17-20

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

Appendix Left Side

1. Fixes by the left side clamp of the tank.

2. Tank drain hose passes the side cover installation under the bracket.

3. Air cleaner drain hose

4. Fuel tank drain hose

5. Cooling reserve tank hose

6. Fixes by the swingarm clamp

7. Fuel level sensor

8. Fixes by the right side clamps two places of the tank.

9. The outside of the frame passed 10. Fuel level sensor lead

17-4 APPENDIX

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Clutch cable

2. Meter ground

3. Clamp (Ignition switch connector)

4. Ignition switch connector

5. Inlet air pressure sensor

6. To ignition coil

7. Fan motor connector (Connect the connector on the inlet air pressure sensor.)

8. Clamp

9. To fuel pump

10. To fuel level gauge and fuel reserve switch

11. To pickup coil and oil pressure switch

12. Insert the clamp of mainharness into the flame hole.

13. Mainharness

14. Starter relay

15. To rear brake switch

16. Connect the battery negative cable and battery.

17. Battery negative cable

18. Self-diagnosis indicator terminal

19. Turn signal relay

20. Fuel pump relay

21. ECU main relay

22. License light connector

23. Tail light connector

24. Rear right turn signal light connector

25. Rear left turn signal light connector

26. Atmospheric pressure sensor

27. Bracket

28. ECU fuse

29. Junction Box

30. ECU

31. Run the lead of ECU under the end surface of battery case.

32. Battery Positive Cable (to starter relay)

33. Regulator/rectifier

34. Vehicle-down sensor

35. Inlet air temperature sensor

36. Side stand switch

37. Neutral Switch

38. Speed sensor

39. Alternator

40. Engine harness

41. Water temperature sensor

42. Run the lead of ignition switch above the hose connected with the thermostat body, and the front of inlet air pressure sensor as well.

43. Frame ground (with thermostat)

44. To cam sensor, fan switch, horn

45. The harness passes on the clutch cable.

46. Battery case

47. Damper

48. Front

49. Run the brake hose between upper bracket and clamp of bracket.

50. Run the Throttle Cable together with the Right Grip Switch wire through the of Cowl Bracket clamp.

Run the wire thought the center of the frame, which has to be located nearer to the center than the cable.

51. Right switch housing lead

52. Run the Clutch Cable, the Starter Cable and the Left Grip Switch wire through the space made between the Cowl Bracket clamp and the Upper Bracket.

Run the Main Harness under the right side of the thermostat body.

53. Left switch housing lead

54. Starter cable

55. Run the starter cable through under the throttle cable.

56. Run the clutch cable between the water hose and the mainharness.

57. Throttle cable (decelerator)

58. Throttle cable (accelerator)

59. No slip of cable

60. Band (near of the air cleaner duct holder screw)

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Run the main harness through lower and right side of the thermostat.

2. Frame ground (with thermostat bracket)

3. Ignition switch connector

4. Meter ground (with thermostat)

5. Engine harness (Connect the harness on the cross pipe.)

6. Water temperature sensor

7. Inlet air pressure sensor

8. Clamp

9. To pickup coil and oil pressure switch

10. To fuel level gauge and fuel reserve switch

11. To fuel pump

12. Bracket

13. Insert the fuse holder under the left side bolt that connects the battery case with tool case to tighten temporarily.

14. Storage compartment

15. Battery case

16. ECU fuse

17. Regulator/rectifier

18. Run the lead through the inside of the pipe.

19. Speed sensor

20. Side stand switch

21. Neutral switch

22. To alternator

23. To ignition coil

24. Horn

25. Horn lead

26. Cam sensor

27. Fan switch

28. Run the harness between the engine bracket and the left side space of the baffle plate.

29. Starter cable

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

Kawasaki Leads

1. Tail light

2. Clamp

3. Atmospheric pressure sensor

4. To ECU fuse

5. Junction Box

6. To self-diagnosis indicator terminal

7. Pickup coil and oil pressure switch

8. Fuel pump

9. Fuel level gauge and fuel reserve switch

10. To inlet air temperature sensor

11. Fan motor connector

12. Inlet air pressure sensor

13. Water temperature sensor

14. Engine harness

15. Meter ground

16. Ignition switch

17. Frame ground (with thermostat)

18. Right switch housing lead

19. Left switch housing lead

20. Running position lights

21. Headlight

22. Turn signal lights

23. Fun motor

24. Ignition coil

25. Vehicle-dwon sensor

26. To rear brake switch

27. Starter relay

28. Regulator/rectifier

29. Battery positive cable

30. Connect the battery negative cable and battery.

31. Battery

32. ECU

33. Turn signal light relay

34. Fuel pump relay

35. ECU main relay

36. License light

37. Rear right turn signal light

38. Rear left turn signal light

39. Throttle cable (accelerator)

40. Throttle cable (decelerator)

41. Clutch cable

42. Run the clutch cable inside the chain tensioner.

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

Starter Motor Appendix

1. Clamp all the wires as shown in the encircled area.

2. Meter

3. Take out the lead of the meter from the right side of the tie lap to connect with the meter.

4. Clutch cable

5. Starter cable

6. To front left turn signal light (Run the harness above the bolt for fairing installation.)

7. Run the ignition switch lead front the clutch cable and starter cable.

8. To left switch housing

9. Run the leads for the clutch starter and the ignition switch in order from the head pipe then run the cables with their acceleration side facing outward.

10. Headlight high and low

11. Install the lead with its inner side facing inward.

12. Running position light

13. To right switch housing

14. Throttle cable (Run the cable through the front of main harness.)

15. Brake hose (to caliper right side)

16. To front right turn signal light (Run the harness above the bolt for fairing installation.)

17. Seat lock

18. Seat lock cable

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

Zzr1100 Firing Order

1. Clamp

2. Brake hose

3. Punch mark

4. Run the brake hose through the inside of the frame.

5. Tight the bolt to the specified torque with the stopper (for turning prevention) applied.

17-14 APPENDIX

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Cam sensor lead (Run the lead between the convex area of cap center and bolt head to secure the coupler.)

2. Radiator fan switch lead (Run the lead through into the water hose.)

4. Catch cable (Run the cable through forward the water hose.)

5. Air suction valve

6. Water hose (Thermostat - Radiator)

7. Water hose (Head - Thermostat)

8. Inlet air pressure sensor

9. Vacuum hose (Run the vacuum hose under the throttle cable to connect with the inlet air pressure sensor.)

10. Throttle cables (accelerator)

11. Throttle cables (decelerator)

12. Vacuum balance tube

13. Choke Cable

14. Hose (air suction valve - air cleaner)

15. Stick coil

16. Fuel pump

17. Fuel hose

18. To inlet air pressure sensor

19. To air suction valve

20. To prevent the throttle cable from unexpected coming down.

21. Cover

22. Throttle body

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

Installed Thermostat Upside Down

1. Bend the bracket as shown to secure the lead.

2. Bend the bracket.

3. Run the lead end till it touches the boss of the crankcase.

4. Install the exterior of the lead with staking area facing downward.

Cable, Wire, and Hose Routing

1. Run the hose (cap - reserve) through upside of the throttle cable.

2. Run the hose (white) through into the throttle cables.

3. Run the throttle body harness throttle upside of the hose (white) and hose (throttle - fitting).

4. Run the harness through upside of the hose.

5. Throttle cables

6. Hose (fitting - throttle body #2 right)

8. Hose (throttle body #3 right - under the separator) (white)

9. Hose (canister - upside the separator) (blue)

10. Hose (tank (blue) - upside the separator) (blue)

12. A top view (separator)

13. Harness

15. Run the hose (red) through inside the frame.

16. Connector

17. Run the hose (white) through inside the bracket.

18. Choke cable

19. Run the hose (green) through inside the rib.

20. Clamp the hose

21. Run the hose (blue) through outside the flame.

22. Run the hose (cap - reserve) through upside the cross pipe.

23. Run the hose (reserve tank drain hose) through backside the cross pipe.

24. Run the air cleaner drain hose through backside the cross pipe.

25. Cross pipe

26. Separator

27. Band

28. Cramp

29. Vacuum hose

30. Canister

31. To separator

32. To fitting

Troubleshooting Guide NOTE

ORefer to the Fuel System chapter for most of DFI trouble shooting guide. OThis is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficulties.

Engine Doesn't Start, Starting Difficulty: Starter motor not rotating:

Starter lockout switch or neutral switch trouble

Starter motor trouble Battery voltage low

Starter relay not contacting or operating Starter button not contacting Wiring open or shorted Ignition switch trouble Engine stop switch trouble Fuse blown Starter motor rotating but engine doesn't turn over: Starter clutch trouble Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off Engine won't turn over: Valve seizure Valve lifter seizure Cylinder, piston seizure Crankshaft seizure Connecting rod small end seizure Connecting rod big end seizure Transmission gear or bearing seizure Camshaft seizure Starter idle gear seizure No fuel flow: No fuel in tank Fuel pump trouble Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel filter clogged Fuel line clogged

Engine flooded: Clean spark plug and adjust plug gap Starting technique faulty (When flooded, do not crank the engine with the throttle fully opened. This promotes engine flood because more fuel is supplied automatically by DFI.) No spark; spark weak: Vehicle-down sensor (DFI) coming off Ignition switch not ON Engine stop switch turned OFF Clutch lever not pulled in or gear not in neutral

Battery voltage low

Spark plug dirty, broken, or gap maladjusted

Stick coil shorted or not in good contact Stick coil trouble Spark plug incorrect IC igniter in ECU trouble Camshaft position sensor trouble Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Ignition switch or engine stop switch shorted Wiring shorted or open Fuse blown Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Bypass screw and/or idle adjusting screw maladjusted Air passage clogged

Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Compression Low:

Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)

Poor Running at Low Speed:

Spark weak:

Battery voltage low

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted

Stick coil wiring trouble

Stick coil not in good contact

Spark plug incorrect

IC igniter in ECU trouble

Camshaft position sensor trouble

Crankshaft sensor trouble

Stick coil trouble

Fuel/air mixture incorrect:

Bypass screw maladjusted Air passage clogged Air bleed pipe bleed holes clogged Pilot passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Fuel tank air vent obstracted

Fuel pump trouble

Throttle body assy holder loose

Air cleaner duct loose Compression low: Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head warped Cylinder head gasket damaged Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface) Other: IC igniter in ECU trouble Throttle body assy not synchronizing Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Brake dragging Air suction valve trouble Vacuum switch valve trouble Engine overheating Clutch slipping

Poor Running or No Power at High Speed: Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Stick coil wiring trouble Stick coil not in good contact Spark plug incorrect Camshaft postion trouble IC igniter in ECU trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Stick coil trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing

Air cleaner O-ring damaged Air cleaner duct loose Water or foreign matter in fuel Throttle body assy holder loose Fuel to injector insufficient (DFI) Fuel tank air vent obstructed Fuel line clogged Fuel pump trouble (DFI)

Compression low:

Spark plug loose

Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down No valve clearance

Cylinder, piston worn

Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Valve spring broken or weak Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.) Knocking: Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect IC igniter in ECU trouble Camshaft position sensor trouble Crankshaft sensor trouble Miscellaneous: Throttle valve won't fully open Brake dragging Clutch slipping Engine overheating Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Air suction valve trouble Vacuum switch valve trouble Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)

Overheating: Firing incorrect:

Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect IC igniter in ECU trouble

Troubleshooting Guide

Muffler overheating:

For KLEEN, do not run the engine even if with only one cylinder misfiring or poor running (Request the nearest service facility to correct it) For KLEEN, do not push-start with a dead battery (Connect another full-charged battery with jumper cables, and start the engine using the electric starter) For KLEEN, do not start the engine under misfire due to spark plug fouling or poor connection of the stick coil For KLEEN, do not coast the motorcycle with the ignition switch off (Turn the ignition switch ON and run the engine) IC igniter in ECU trouble Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Throttle body assy holder loose Air cleaner duct loose Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing Air cleaner O-ring damaged Air cleaner clogged Compression high:

Carbon built up in combustion chamber Engine load faulty: Clutch slipping Engine oil level too high Engine oil viscosity too high Drive train trouble Brake dragging Lubrication inadequate: Engine oil level too low Engine oil poor quality or incorrect Oil cooler incorrect:

Oil cooler clogged Gauge incorrect: Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken

Coolant incorrect:

Coolant level too low Coolant deteriorated Wrong coolant mixed ratio Cooling system component incorrect:

Radiator fin damaged Radiator clogged Thermostat trouble Radiator cap trouble Radiator fan switch trouble Radiator fan relay trouble Fan motor broken Fan blade damaged Water pump not turning Water pump impeller damaged

Over Cooling: Gauge incorrect:

Water temperature gauge broken Water temperature sensor broken

Cooling system component incorrect:

Radiator fan switch trouble Thermostat trouble

Clutch Operation Faulty: Clutch slipping:

Friction plate worn or warped Steel plate worn or warped Clutch spring broken or weak Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn No clutch lever play Clutch inner cable trouble Clutch release mechanism trouble

Clutch not disengaging properly:

Clutch plate warped or too rough Clutch spring compression uneven Engine oil deteriorated Engine oil viscosity too high Engine oil level too high Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft Clutch hub nut loose Clutch hub spline damaged Clutch friction plate installed wrong Clutch lever play excessive Clutch release mechanism trouble

Gear Shifting Faulty: Doesn't go into gear; shift pedal doesn't return:

Clutch not disengaging Shift fork bent or seized Gear stuck on the shaft Gear positioning lever binding Shift return spring weak or broken Shift return spring pin loose Shift mechanism arm spring broken Shift mechanism arm broken Shift pawl broken Jumps out of gear: Shift fork ear worn, bent Gear groove worn Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn Shift drum groove worn Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken

Shift fork guide pin worn Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines worn Overshifts: Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken

Shift mechanism arm spring broken

Abnormal Engine Noise: Knocking:

IC igniter in ECU trouble Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect Overheating Piston slap: Cylinder/piston clearance excessive Cylinder, piston worn Connecting rod bent Piston pin, piston pin hole worn Valve noise: Valve clearance incorrect Valve spring broken or weak Camshaft bearing worn Valve lifter worn Other noise: Connecting rod small end clearance excessive

Connecting rod big end clearance excessive

Piston ring/groove clearance excessive Piston ring worn, broken, or stuck Piston ring groove worn Piston seizure, damage Cylinder head gasket leaking Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection

Crankshaft runout excessive Engine mount loose Crankshaft bearing worn Primary gear worn or chipped Camshaft chain tensioner trouble Camshaft chain, sprocket, guide worn Air suction valve damaged Vacuum switch valve damaged Alternator rotor loose

Catalytic converter melt down due to muffler overheating (KLEEN)

Abnormal Drive Train Noise: Clutch noise:

Clutch damper weak or damaged Clutch housing/friction plate clearance excessive Clutch housing gear worn Wrong installation of outside friction plate Transmission noise:

Bearings worn

Transmission gear worn or chipped Metal chips jammed in gear teeth

Engine oil insufficient

Drive line noise:

Drive chain adjusted improperly Drive chain worn

Rear and/or engine sprocket worn Chain lubrication insufficient Rear wheel misaligned

Abnormal Frame Noise: Front fork noise: Oil insufficient or too thin Spring weak or broken

Rear shock absorber noise:

Shock absorber damaged

Disc brake noise:

Pad installed incorrectly Pad surface glazed Disc warped Caliper trouble Other noise:

Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened

Oil Pressure Warning Light Goes On:

Engine oil pump damaged Engine oil screen clogged Engine oil filter clogged Engine oil level too low Engine oil viscosity too low Camshaft bearing worn Crankshaft bearing worn Oil pressure switch damaged Wiring faulty Relief valve stuck open O-ring at the oil passage in the crankcase damaged

Exhaust Smokes Excessively: White smoke:

Piston oil ring worn Cylinder worn Valve oil seal damaged Valve guide worn Engine oil level too high

Black smoke:

Air cleaner clogged

Brown smoke:

Air cleaner duct loose

Air cleaner O-ring damaged

Air cleaner poorly sealed or missing

Troubleshooting Guide

Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory: Handlebar hard to turn:

Cable routing incorrect Hose routing incorrect Wiring routing incorrect Steering stem nut too tight Steering stem bearing damaged Steering stem bearing lubrication inadequate Steering stem bent Tire air pressure too low Handlebar shakes or excessively vibrates: Tire worn

Swingarm pivot bearing worn Rim warped, or not balanced Wheel bearing worn Handlebar clamp bolt loose Steering stem nut loose Front, rear axle runout excessive Engine mounting bolt loose Handlebar pulls to one side: Frame bent Wheel misalignment Swingarm bent or twisted Swingarm pivot shaft runout excessive Steering maladjusted Front fork bent

Right and left front fork oil level uneven Shock absorption unsatisfactory:

(Too hard)

Front fork oil excessive

Front fork oil viscosity too high

Rear shock absorber adjustment too hard

Tire air pressure too high

Front fork bent

(Too soft)

Tire air pressure too low

Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking

Front fork oil viscosity too low

Rear shock adjustment too soft

Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak

Rear shock absorber oil leaking

Brake Doesn't Hold:

Air in the brake line Pad or disc worn Brake fluid leakage Disc warped Contaminated pad Brake fluid deteriorated Primary or secondary cup damaged in master cylinder

Master cylinder scratched inside

Battery Trouble:

Battery discharged:

Charge insufficient

Battery faulty (too low terminal voltage) Battery lead making poor contact Load excessive (e.g., bulb of excessive wattage) Ignition switch trouble Alternator trouble Wiring faulty

Regulator/rectifier trouble

Battery overcharged:

Alternator trouble Regulator/rectifier trouble Battery faulty

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