Inside Tube Spring Bush

1 Always dismantle the fork legs separately to avoid interchanging parts and thus causing an

6.3 Hose guide and cable guide bolt (arrowed) - 750 models

6.8 Fit the axle nut into the bottom of the left-hand fork

6.4 Top yoke fork clamp bolt (arrowed). Note the alignment of the fork with the top yoke as an aid to installation ill

6.5 Bottom yoke fork clamp bolts (arrowed)

7.1 Front fork components

1 Top bolt

2 O-ring

3 Spacer

4 Spring seat

5 Spring

6 Damper rod

7 Piston ring

8 Rebound spring

9 Damper rod seat

10 Fork tube

11 Bottom bush

12 Dust seal

13 Retaining clip

14 Oil seal

15 Washer

16 Top bush

17 Fork slider

18 Sealing washer

19 Damper rod bolt

20 Oil drain screw accelerated rate of wear. Store all components In separate, clearly-marked containers (see illustration).

2 Before dismantling the fork, It is advised that the damper rod bolt be slackened at this stage. To access the left-hand fork damper bolt, slacken the axle nut clamp bolt in the base of the fork slider and remove the axle nut (see illustration 6.8). Compress the fork tube in the slider so that the spring exerts maximum pressure on the damper rod head, then have an assistant slacken the damper rod bolt in the base of the fork slider.

3 If the fork top bolt was not slackened with the fork In situ, carefully clamp the fork tube in a vice, taking care not to overtighten or score Its surface, and slacken the top bolt.

4 Unscrew the fork top bolt from the top of the fork tube.

A Warning: The fork spring is pressing on the fork top bolt with considerable pressure. Unscrew the bolt very carefully, keeping a downward pressure on it and release it slowly as it is likely to spring clear. It is advisable to wear some form of eye and face protection when carrying out this operation.

5 Slide the fork tube down into the slider and withdraw the spacer, spring seat and the spring from the tube, noting which way up they fit (see illustrations 7.26c, b and a).

6 Invert the fork leg over a suitable container and pump the fork vigorously to expel as much fork oil as possible.

7 Remove the slackened damper rod bolt and its copper sealing washer from the bottom of the slider. Discard the sealing washer as a new one must be used on reassembly. If the damper rod bolt was not slackened before dismantling the fork, It may be necessary to re-install the spring, spring seat, spacer and top bolt to prevent the damper rod from turning. Alternatively, a length of wooden doweling pressed hard into the damper rod head quite often suffices. Note: A damper rod holding tool can be purchased from Kawasaki dealers (see Step 20).

8 Invert the fork and withdraw the damper rod from inside the fork tube. Remove the rebound spring from the damper rod (see illustration).

9 Carefully prise out the dust seal from the top of the slider to gain access to the oil seal retaining clip (see illustration). Discard the dust seal as a new one must be used.

10 Carefully remove the retaining clip, taking care not to scratch the surface of the tube (see illustration).

7.9 Prise out the dust seal using a flat-bladed screwdriver

7.10 Prise out the retaining clip using a flat-bladed screwdriver

7.8 Withdraw the damper rod and rebound spring from the tube

7.9 Prise out the dust seal using a flat-bladed screwdriver

7.10 Prise out the retaining clip using a flat-bladed screwdriver

7.8 Withdraw the damper rod and rebound spring from the tube

7.11 To separate the fork tube and slider, pull apart firmly several times - the slide hammer effect will pull the tubes apart

7.17 Ease the bottom bush ends apart using a flat-bladed screwdriver

11 To separate the tube from the slider it will be necessary to displace the top bush and oil seal. The bottom bush should not pass through the top bush, and this can be used to good effect. Push the tube gently inwards until it stops against the damper rod seat. Take care not to do this forcibly or the seat may be damaged. Then pull the tube sharply outwards until the bottom bush strikes the top bush. Repeat this operation until the top bush and seal are tapped out of the slider (see illustration).

12 With the tube removed, slide off the oil seal and its washer, followed by the top bush, noting which way up they fit (see illustration). Discard the oil seal as a new one must be used.

Caution: Do not remove the bottom bush from the tube unless it is to be replaced.

13 Tip the damper rod seat out of the slider, noting which way up it fits.

Inspection

14 Clean all parts in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air, if available. Check the fork tube for score marks, scratches, flaking of the chrome finish and excessive or abnormal wear. Look for dents In the tube and replace the tube in both forks if any are found. Check the fork seal seat for nicks, gouges and scratches. If damage is evident, leaks will occur.

15 Check the fork tube for runout using V-blocks and a dial gauge (see illustration). No

Inside Tube Spring Bush
7.12 The oil seal (1), washer (2), top bush (3) and bottom bush (4) will come out with the fork tube

7.15 Check the fork tube for runout using V-blocks and a dial gauge service limit is given by Kawasaki, but if runout is excessive seek the advice of a Kawasaki dealer or suspension specialist.

A Warning: If it is bent, it should not be straightened; replace it with a new one.

16 Check the spring for cracks and other damage. Measure the spring free length using a steel rule and compare the measurement to the specifications at the beginning of the Chapter. If it is defective or sagged below the service limit, replace the springs in both forks with new ones. Never replace only one spring. Also check the rebound spring.

17 Examine the working surfaces of the two bushes; if worn or scuffed they must be replaced. To remove the bottom bush from the fork tube, prise it apart at the slit using a screwdriver and slide it off (see illustration). Make sure the new one seats properly.

18 Check the damper rod and Its piston ring for damage and wear, and replace them if necessary (see illustration).

Reassembly

19 If removed, install the piston ring into the groove in the damper rod head, then slide the rebound spring onto the rod (see illustration). Insert the damper rod into the fork tube and slide it into place so that it projects fully from the bottom of the tube, then install the seat on the bottom of the damper rod (see illustration).

20 Oil the fork tube and bottom bush with the specified fork oil and insert the assembly into the slider (see illustration). Fit a new copper sealing washer to the damper rod bolt and apply a few drops of a suitable non-permanent thread-locking compound, then

7.19a Slide the rebound spring onto the damper rod

7.18 Replace the damper rod piston ring if it is worn or damaged

7.19a Slide the rebound spring onto the damper rod

7.19b Fit the seat to the bottom of the rod 7.20a Slide the tube into the slider

7.20b Apply a thread-locking compound to the damper rod bolt and use a new sealing washer

7.21a Install the top bush ...

7.21b ... followed by the washer

7.23 Install the retaining clip ..

7.24 ... followed by the dust seal

7.23 Install the retaining clip ..

7.24 ... followed by the dust seal

7.20b Apply a thread-locking compound to the damper rod bolt and use a new sealing washer

7.21a Install the top bush ...

7.21b ... followed by the washer

7.25a Pour the oil into the top of the tube 7.25b Measure the oil level with the fork held vertical

7.25a Pour the oil into the top of the tube 7.25b Measure the oil level with the fork held vertical install the bolt Into the bottom of the slider (see illustration). Tighten the bolt to the specified torque setting. If the damper rod rotates inside the tube, temporarily install the fork spring and top bolt (see Steps 26 and 27) and compress the fork to hold the damper rod. Alternatively, a length of wood doweling pressed hard into the damper rod head quite often suffices. Note: If neither method succeeds in holding the damper rod, obtain the Kawasaki service tool adapter (pt. no. 57001-1057) and handle (pt. no. 57001-183). 21 Push the fork tube fully into the slider, then oil the top bush and slide it down over the tube (see illustration). Press the bush squarely into its recess in the slider as far as possible, then install the oil seal washer (see illustration). Either use the service tool (pt. no. 57001-1219) or a suitable piece of tubing to tap the bush fully into place; the tubing must be slightly larger in diameter than the fork tube and slightly smaller in diameter than the bush recess in the slider. Take care not to scratch the fork tube during this operation; it is best to make sure that the fork tube is pushed fully into the slider so that any accidental scratching is confined to the area above the oil seal.

22 When the bush is seated fully and squarely in its recess in the slider, (remove the washer to check, wipe the recess clean, then reinstall the washer), install the new oil seal. Smear the seal's lips with fork oil and slide it over the tube so that its markings face upwards and drive the seal into place as described in Step 21 until the retaining clip groove is visible above the seal.(see illustration).

23 Once the seal is correctly seated, fit the retaining clip, making sure it is correctly located in its groove (see illustration).

24 Lubricate the lips of the new dust seal then slide it down the fork tube and press it into position (see illustration).

25 Slowly pour In the specified quantity of the specified grade of fork oil and pump the fork to distribute it evenly (see illustration); the oil level should also be measured and adjustment made by adding or subtracting oil. Fully compress the fork tube into the slider and measure the fork oil level from the top of the tube (see illustration). Add or subtract fork oil until the oil is at the level specified in the Specifications Section of this Chapter.

26 Clamp the slider in a vice via the brake caliper mounting lugs, taking care not to overtighten and damage them. Pull the fork

7.22 Make sure the oil seal is the correct way up

7.26a Install the spring ...

7.26a Install the spring ...

tube out of the slider as far as possible then install the spring with its closer-wound coils at the top, followed by the spring seat and the spacer (see illustrations).

27 Fit a new O-ring onto the fork top bolt if the old one is in any way damaged or deteriorated. Thread the bolt into the top of the fork tube.

A Warning: It will be necessary to compress the spring by pressing it down using the top bolt in order to engage the threads of the top bolt with the fork tube. This is a potentially dangerous operation and should be performed with care, using an assistant if necessary. Wipe off any excess oil before starting to prevent the possibility of slipping.

28 Keep the fork tube fully extended whilst pressing on the spring. Screw the top bolt carefully into the fork tube making sure it is not cross-threaded. Note: The top bolt can be tightened to the specified torque setting at this stage if the tube is held between the padded jaws of a vice, but do not risk distorting the tube by doing so. A better method is to tighten the top bolt when the fork has been installed in the bike and is securely held in the bottom yoke.

29 Install the forks (see Section 6).

Steering stem -

removal and installation

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