Kawasaki 57001-1099

Clues to a faulty regulator are constantly blowing bulbs, with brightness varying considerably with engine speed, and battery overheating, necessitating frequent topping up of the electrolyte level.

7 Connect a multimeter set to the 0-20 volts dc scale (voltmeter) across the terminals of the battery (positive (+) lead to battery positive (+) terminal, negative (-) lead to battery negative (-) terminal). Start the engine, then turn on the lights (UK models) and note the reading obtained at idle speed - it should be just under battery voltage (12V). Increase engine speed and note the voltage reading - it should vary between 14 to 15V. Stop the engine and disconnect the meter when testing is complete. If the voltage is outside these limits, check the unregulated output of the alternator (see below), and the regulator (see Section 35). Note: If the voltage is low, it is more likely that the alternator is faulty. If the voltage is above 15 volts, it is more likely that the regulator is faulty.

8 Carry out the above test with the headlight turned off and note the readings. On US/Canada the headlight wire connector must be detached from the back of the headlight unit to turn off the headlight. Unregulated output test

9 Unscrew the gearchange linkage arm pinch bolt and remove the arm from the shaft, noting any alignment marks (see illustration 22.2a). If no marks are visible, make your own before removing the arm so that it can be correctly aligned with the shaft on installation. Unscrew the bolts securing the engine sprocket cover to the crankcase and remove the cover (see illustrations 22.2b or c).

10 Trace the alternator wiring from the base of the alternator cover and disconnect it at the connector(s) (see illustrations). Using a multimeter set to 0 - 250 V ac range, connect the meter probes between two of the yellow wires from the alternator. Start the engine and increase its speed to 4000 rpm. Check the voltage output and compare it to the minimum specified at the beginning of the Chapter.

31.20b On 750 models, the long bolts run outside the housing

33 Charging system - testing

1 If the machine's charging system is thought to be faulty, perform the following checks.

Leakage test

2 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7) and disconnect the lead from the battery negative (-) terminal.

3 Set the multimeter to the mA (milli Amps) function and connect its negative (-) probe to the battery negative (-) terminal, and positive (+) probe to the disconnected negative (-) lead (see illustration). With the meter connected like this the reading should not exceed 0.1 mA.

4 If the reading exceeds the specified amount it is likely that there is a short circuit in the wiring. Thoroughly check the wiring between the various components (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this book).

5 If the reading is below the specified amount, the leakage rate is satisfactory. Disconnect the meter and reconnect the negative (-) lead to the battery, tightening it securely, Check the alternator output as described below.

Output test

Regulated output test

6 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature then stop the engine.

33.10a Alternator wiring connectors 33.10b Alternator wiring connector

(arrowed) - 550 models (arrowed) - 750 models

33.14 Testing stator coil resistance 34.3 The alternator cover is secured by four bolts (arrowed)

34.4 Alternator rotor bolt (arrowed) 34.6 Stator bolts (A), wiring clamp screws (B)

5 To remove the rotor from the shaft it is necessary to use a rotor puller. The Kawasaki special tools (pt. no. 57001-1099 for 550 models, and pt. nos. 57001-1151 and 57001-1216 for 750 models), or a commercially available rotor puller can be used (making sure it has the correct thread on it). Screw the puller into the rotor thread, and using the method employed earlier to stop the rotor from turning, tighten the puller until the rotor is displaced from the shaft.

A smart tap on the head of

^the puller will usually succeed in breaking any corrosion free between the rotor and crankshaft taper.

6 To remove the stator from the crankcase cover, unscrew the three bolts securing the stator and the screws securing the wiring clamp, then remove the assembly from the cover, noting the routing of the wiring and how the rubber grommet fits (see illustration).

Installation

7 De-grease the tapered portion of the crankshaft and the corresponding surface in the rotor using a suitable solvent. Make sure

34 Alternator -

removal and installation

33.14 Testing stator coil resistance 34.3 The alternator cover is secured by four bolts (arrowed)

11 Stop the engine, then connect the meter to another pair of yellow wires and repeat the test. Stop the engine then test across the remaining pair of yellow wires. If any of the three readings are below the minimum specified, check the stator coil resistance (see below). If the readings are good, check the regulator (see Section 35).

Alternator stator coil test

12 Unscrew the gearchange linkage arm pinch bolt and remove the arm from the shaft, noting any alignment marks (see illustration 22.2a). If no marks are visible, make your own before removing the arm so that it can be correctly aligned with the shaft on installation. Unscrew the bolts securing the engine sprocket cover to the crankcase and remove the cover (see illustrations 22.2b or c).

13 Trace the alternator wiring from the base of the alternator cover and disconnect it at the connector(s) (see illustrations 33.9a or b).

14 Using multimeter set to the ohms x 1 scale, check the resistance between each of the wires on the alternator side of the connector, taking a total of three readings (see illustration). Also check for continuity between each terminal and earth (ground). If the stator coil windings are in good condition there should be the resistance specified between each of the terminals, and no continuity (infinite resistance) between any of the terminals and ground (earth). If not, the alternator stator coil assembly is at fault and should be replaced. If the resistance readings are as specified but the alternator output is low when tested as above, the rotor magnets have probably weakened. Note: Before condemning the stator coils, check the fault is not due to damaged wiring between the connector and coils.

Removal

1 Unscrew the gearchange linkage arm pinch bolt and remove the arm from the shaft, noting any alignment marks (see illustration 22.2a). If no marks are visible, make your own before removing the arm so that it can be correctly aligned with the shaft on installation. Unscrew the bolts securing the engine sprocket cover to the crankcase and remove the cover (see illustrations 22.2b or c).

2 Trace the alternator wiring from the base of the alternator cover and disconnect it at the connector(s) (see illustrations 33.10a or b). Release the wiring from any clips or ties.

3 Unscrew the alternator cover retaining bolts and lift the cover away from the engine (see illustration). The stator is mounted inside the cover. Remove the gasket and discard it. Remove the two dowels from either the cover or the crankcase, if they are loose.

4 To remove the rotor bolt, the rotor must be held against rotation. If a rotor holding strap or tool is not available, place the transmission in gear and have an assistant apply the rear brake. Unscrew the bolt (see illustration).

34.4 Alternator rotor bolt (arrowed) 34.6 Stator bolts (A), wiring clamp screws (B)

34.9 Install the cover using a new gasket

35.1a Regulator/rectifier wiring connector (arrowed) - later 550 models

34.9 Install the cover using a new gasket that no metal objects have attached themselves to the magnet on the inside of the rotor then install the rotor onto the crankshaft. Install the rotor bolt and, using the method employed on removal to stop the rotor from turning, tighten it to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter.

8 Install the stator into the cover, aligning the rubber wiring grommet with the groove in the cover. Apply a suitable non-permanent thread-locking compound to the stator bolt threads, then install the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque setting. Apply a suitable sealant to the wiring grommet, then install it into the cutout in the cover. Install the wiring clamp and secure it with the screws (see illustration 34.6).

9 Make sure the dowels are fitted, then install the alternator cover using a new gasket (see illustration). Tighten the cover bolts evenly in a criss-cross sequence.

10 Reconnect the wiring at the connector(s), making sure it is correctly routed, and secure it with any clips or ties (see illustrations 33.10a orb).

11 Install the sprocket cover and the gearchange lever, aligning the marks made on removal.

35 Regulator/rectifier unit -

check and replacement ^S

Check

1 The regulator/rectifier is mounted behind the right-hand side panel on early 550 models, below the battery tray above the front of the swingarm on later 550 models, and under the fuel tank on 750 models (see illustrations 35.6a and b). Remove the right-hand side panel (see Chapter 7) or the fuel tank (see Chapter 3) as required. Trace the wiring from the regulator/rectifier unit and disconnect it at the connector, or disconnect the wiring connector from the unit, according to model (see illustrations).

2 To test the rectifier circuit, use a multimeter set to the appropriate resistance scale and check the resistance between the various terminals of the regulator/rectifier connectors

35.1a Regulator/rectifier wiring connector (arrowed) - later 550 models as shown in the table (see illustration). If the readings do not compare closely with those shown in the accompanying table the regulator/rectifier unit can be considered faulty. Note: The use of certain multimeters could lead to false readings being obtained. Therefore, if the above check shows the regulator/rectifier unit to be faulty take the unit to a Kawasaki dealer for confirmation of its condition before replacing it.

35.1b Regulator/rectifier wiring connector (arrowed) - 750 models

3 To test the regulator circuit, three fully charged 12 V batteries, each with a set of auxiliary leads, and a test light are required (see below). If these are not available, carry out a charging system test (see Section 33). If the conditions arise from that test that indicate a faulty regulator, take it to a Kawasaki dealer for further testing. Clues to a faulty regulator are constantly blowing bulbs, with brightness varying considerably with

No.

Connections

Reading

Meter

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Responses

  • blake
    Where does the ground wire connect to engine zr 550?
    4 years ago
  • artur
    How to test a regulator/rectufier unit on Kawasaki zr550?
    2 years ago

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