Yhm

1 Unscrew the two screws securing the tail light lens and remove the lens (see illustration).

8 Pull the bulbholder out of its socket in the base of the headlight (see illustration). Push the bulb down and twist it anti-clockwise to release it from the bulbholder (see illustration).

9 Install the new bulb in the bulbholder, then install the bulbholder by pressing it in.

10 Check the operation of the sidelight, then install the headlight rim into the shell and secure It with the screws (see illustrations 7.1b and a).

8.2 Disconnect the sidelight bulb wiring connectors (arrowed)

8.3b Unscrew the nuts and remove the bolts

10.2 Disconnect the tail light wiring connector

10.3 The tail light assembly is secured by two nuts (arrowed)

9.1 The tail light lens is secured by two screws (arrowed)

If the socket contacts are dirty or corroded, scrape IHll\IT| them clean and spray with electrical contact cleaner before a new bulb is installed.

10 Tail light assembly -

removal and installation ^

12 Turn signal assemblies -

removal and installation ^

10.2 Disconnect the tail light wiring connector

10.3 The tail light assembly is secured by two nuts (arrowed)

Front

Removal

1 Remove the two screws securing the headlight rim to the headlight shell, and ease the rim out of the shell, noting how it fits (see illustrations 7.1a and b).

2 Trace the turn signal wiring back from the turn signal and disconnect it at the connectors inside the headlight shell (see illustration). Pull the wiring through to the turn signal mounting, noting its routing.

4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Check the operation of the tail light and the brake light.

9.1 The tail light lens is secured by two screws (arrowed)

2 Push the bulb in and twist it anti-clockwise to remove it (see illustration). Check the socket terminals for corrosion and clean them if necessary. Line up the pins of the new bulb with the slots in the socket, then push the bulb in and turn it clockwise until it locks into place. Note: The pins on the bulb are offset so it can only be installed one way. It is a good idea to use a paper towel or dry cloth when handling the new bulb to prevent injury if the bulb should break and to increase bulb life.

3 Install the lens onto the tail light, making sure the sealing rubber is correctly seated, and secure it with the screws. Do not overtighten the lens screws as the lens is easily cracked.

4 Install the seat (see Chapter 7).

Removal

1 Remove the seat and the rear cover (see Chapter 7).

2 Trace the tail light wiring back from the tail light and disconnect it at the connector (see illustration).

3 Unscrew the two nuts securing the tail light assembly and carefully remove it from the bike (see illustration). Note the wiring clamp fitted with each nut.

Installation

1 Remove the two screws securing the lens to the turn signal assembly and remove the lens, noting which way round it fits (see illustration). Remove the rubber gasket and check it for damage or deterioration. Replace it if necessary.

2 Push the bulb into the holder and twist it anti-clockwise to remove it (see illustration). Check the socket terminals for corrosion and clean them if necessary. Line up the pins of the new bulb with the slots in the socket, then push the bulb in and turn it clockwise until it locks into place. Note: It is a good idea to use a paper towel or dry cloth when handling the new bulb to prevent injury if the bulb should break and to increase bulb life.

3 Install the lens back onto the cover, using a new gasket if required, and tighten the retaining screws (see illustration). Take care not to overtighten the screws as the lens is easily cracked.

11 Turn signal bulbs -

replacement

11.1 The turn signal lens is secured by two screws (arrowed)

11.3 Make sure the rubber gasket is properly seated when fitting the cover

11.2 Push the bulb in and twist it anti-clockwise to remove it

11.1 The turn signal lens is secured by two screws (arrowed)

11.3 Make sure the rubber gasket is properly seated when fitting the cover

11.2 Push the bulb in and twist it anti-clockwise to remove it

9.2 Push the bulb in and twist it anti-clockwise to remove it

12.2 The front turn signal wiring connectors are inside the headlight shell

12.3 The nut is on the inside of the headlight bracket

12.2 The front turn signal wiring connectors are inside the headlight shell

12.3 The nut is on the inside of the headlight bracket

3 Unscrew the nut securing the turn signal assembly to the headlight bracket and carefully remove the assembly, taking care not to snag the wiring connectors as you draw them through the mounting hole (see illustration).

Installation

4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the wiring is correctly routed and securely connected. Check the operation of

Rear Removal

5 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). Trace the turn signal wiring back from the turn signal and disconnect it at the connector (see illustration). Pull the wiring through to the turn signal mounting, releasing it from any clips and noting its routing.

6 Unscrew the nut securing the turn signal assembly to the mudguard and carefully remove the assembly, taking care not to snag the wiring connectors as you draw them through the mounting hole (see illustration).

Installation

7 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the wiring is correctly routed and securely connected. Check the operation of

12.5 Disconnect the turn signal wiring connectors

13 Turn signal circuit - check

1 The battery provides power for operation of the turn signal lights, so if they do not operate, always check the battery voltage first. Low battery voltage indicates either a faulty battery or a defective charging system. Refer to Section 3 for battery checks and Sections 32 and 33 for charging system tests. Also, check the fuse (see Section 5) and the switch (see

2 Most turn signal problems are the result of a burned out bulb or corroded socket. This is especially true when the turn signals function properly in one direction, but fail to flash in the other direction. Check the bulbs and the sockets (see Section 11), and make sure that the bulbs are of the correct wattage.

3 If the bulbs and sockets are good, check the turn signal relay, which is mounted behind the left-hand side panel (see illustration). Remove the side panel for access (see Chapter 7). Disconnect the relay wiring connector and check for voltage by connecting the positive (+) probe of a multimeter to the turn signal relay brown (early models) or orange/green (later models) wire, and the negative (-) probe to the

12.6 The nut (arrowed) is on the inside of the mudguard

orange wire. With the ignition ON and the turn signal switch placed first to the right and then to the left side, there should be battery voltage in each case. Turn the ignition OFF when the check is complete. Also check for continuity between the relay terminals. There should be continuity (zero or close to zero resistance). If a resistance reading of more than a few ohms is

4 If no power was present at the relay, check the wiring from the relay to the ignition (main)

5 If power was present at the relay, using the appropriate wiring diagram at the end of this Chapter, check the wiring between the relay, turn signal switch and turn signal lights for continuity. If the wiring and switch are sound, replace the relay with a new one.

14 Brake light switches -

check and replacement ^

Circuit check

1 Before checking any electrical circuit, check the bulb (see Section 9) and fuse (see

13.3 The turn signal relay is behind the left-hand side panel

14.5 Disconnect the front brake switch wiring connectors 14.6 The switch is secured by a single screw (arrowed)

(arrowed)

14.5 Disconnect the front brake switch wiring connectors 14.6 The switch is secured by a single screw (arrowed)

(arrowed)

2 Using a multimeter or test light connected to a good earth (ground), check for voltage at the brake light switch wiring connector brown wire (see illustration 14.5 or 14.8b). If there's no voltage present, check the wire between the switch and the Ignition switch (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

3 If voltage is available, touch the probe of the test light to the other terminal (blue wire) of the switch, then pull the brake lever in or depress the brake pedal; the connector must be joined for this check. If no reading is obtained or the test light doesn't light up, replace the switch.

4 If a reading is obtained or the test light does light, check the wiring between the switch and the brake lights (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

Switch replacement Front brake lever switch

5 Disconnect the wiring connectors from the switch (see illustration).

6 Remove the single screw securing the switch to the bottom of the front brake master cylinder and remove the switch (see illustration). It may be necessary to slacken the brake master cylinder lower clamp bolt and rotate the assembly on the handlebar until the screw is clear of the cables before it can be accessed with a screwdriver. If so, tighten the clamp bolt to the torque setting specified on completion.

7 Installation is the reverse of removal. The switch isn't adjustable.

Rear brake pedal switch

8 The switch is mounted on the inside of the frame above the master cylinder (see illustration). Trace the wiring from the top of the switch and disconnect it at the wiring connector behind the right-hand side panel (see illustration). Remove the side panel for access (see Chapter 7).

9 Detach the upper end of the switch spring from the switch, then unscrew the switch (see illustration).

10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the brake light is activated just before the rear brake pedal takes effect. If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch and turn the adjusting nut on the switch body until the brake light is activated when required.

15 Instrument cluster and speedometer cable - ^

removal and installation ^

Instrument cluster

Removal

1 Remove the two screws securing the headlight rim to the headlight shell, and ease the rim out of the shell, noting how it fits (see illustrations 7.1a and b). Trace the wiring back from the instrument cluster and disconnect it at the connectors inside the headlight shell. Release the wiring from any clips or ties.

2 Unscrew the speedometer cable retaining ring from the back of the speedometer and detach the cable (see illustration 15.5).

3 Unscrew the two nuts securing the instrument cluster to the underside of the top yoke and carefully remove the assembly from the yoke, taking care not to snag the wiring and noting its routing (see illustration). Installation

4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure that the speedometer cable and wiring connectors are correctly routed and secured.

14.8a Rear brake light switch (arrowed)

14.8b Disconnect the wiring at the connector behind the right-hand side panel

14.9 Detach the spring from the switch

14.8a Rear brake light switch (arrowed)

14.8b Disconnect the wiring at the connector behind the right-hand side panel

14.9 Detach the spring from the switch

15.3 The instrument cluster is secured by two nuts (arrowed) 15.5 Unscrew the knurled ring securing the cable to the speedometer (arrowed) . ..

15.3 The instrument cluster is secured by two nuts (arrowed) 15.5 Unscrew the knurled ring securing the cable to the speedometer (arrowed) . ..

15.6 ... and the drive housing (arrowed]

15.9 Make sure the Inner cable locates correctly in the speedometer...

15.10 ... and the drive housing

Speedometer cable Removal

5 Unscrew the speedometer cable retaining ring from the rear of the mstrument cluster and detach the cable (see illustration).

6 Unscrew the retaining ring securing the lower end of the cable to the drive housing on the left-hand side of the front wheel (see illustration).

7 Withdraw the cable from its guide(s) and remove it from the bike, noting its correct routing.

Installation

8 Route the cable correctly and install it in its retaining guide(s).

9 Connect the cable upper end to the instrument cluster and tighten the retaining ring securely (see Illustration).

10 Connect the cable lower end to the drive

16 instruments- if.

check and replacement &

Speedometer

Check

1 Special instruments are required to properly check the operation of this meter. If it is believed to be faulty, take the motorcycle to a Kawasaki dealer for assessment. Replacement

2 Remove the instrument cluster (Section 15).

3 On US ZR55Û B1 and B2 models, remove the screws securing the rear cover and remove the cover. Remove the nuts securing the mounting bracket and remove the bracket. Turn the odometer trip knob anti housing and tighten the retaining ring securely (see illustration).

11 Check that the cable doesn't restrict steering movement or interfere with any other components.

15.10 ... and the drive housing

16.4a Remove the screw securing the rear cover

16.4b Speedometer mounting nut (A), tachometer mounting nut (B)

16.4a Remove the screw securing the rear cover

16.4b Speedometer mounting nut (A), tachometer mounting nut (B)

clockwise and remove it from the front of the cluster. Remove the three screws on the back of the cluster which secure the front cover and remove the front cover. Remove the two screws securing the speedometer to the back cover and lift the speedometer out.

4 On all other models, remove the single screw securing the instrument cluster rear cover and remove the cover (see illustration). Remove the nut securing the speedometer to the bracket and lift it off the bracket, noting how the small lug locates in the hole in the bracket (see illustration). Unscrew the single screw securing the casing and withdraw the speedometer from the casing, then remove the bulbholders (see illustrations 16.10a and b, and 17.1a).

5 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the cable is correctly and securely connected.

Tachometer

Check

6 First check all the wiring in the tachometer circuit for faults (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter). If the wiring is all good, then the tachometer is probably faulty. Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3). Disconnect the

16.10a Remove the screw ...

black wire from the primary circuit terminal on the ignition coil for nos. 1 and 4 cylinders. Turn the ignition switch ON. Connect an insulated jumper wire between the coil black wire and the positive (+) terminal of the battery. The tachometer needle should flick off its rest. If it doesn't, the tachometer is faulty.

7 Special instruments are required to properly check the operation of this meter. If it is believed to be faulty, take the motorcycle to a Kawasaki dealer for assessment. Replacement

8 Remove the instrument cluster (Section 15). Disconnect the single wiring connector between the tachometer wiring and the warning light panel wiring.

9 On US ZR550 B1 and B2 models, remove the screws securing the rear cover and remove the cover. Remove the nuts securing the mounting bracket and remove the bracket. Turn the odometer trip knob anti-clockwise and remove it from the front of the cluster. Remove the tachometer wiring screws and detach the wires, carefully noting the position of each wire. Remove the three screws on the back of the cluster which secure the front cover and remove the front cover. Remove the screws securing the tachometer to the back cover and lift the tachometer out.

16.10b ... and withdraw the instrument from the casing

10 On all other models, remove the single screw securing the instrument cluster rear cover and remove the cover (see illustration 16.4a). Remove the nut securing the tachometer to the bracket and lift it off the bracket, noting how the small lug locates in the hole in the bracket (see illustration 16.4b). Unscrew the single screw securing the casing and withdraw the tachometer from the casing (see illustrations). Remove the tachometer wiring screws and detach the wires, carefully noting the position of each wire. Also remove the bulbholders (see illustration 17.1a).

11 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the wires are correctly and securely connected.

Fuel gauge (all models except US ZR550 B1 and B2)

Check

12 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). Trace the fuel level sender wiring from the underside of the fuel tank and disconnect it at the connector (remove the tank mounting bolts and raise the tank at the rear, or remove the tank for improved access if required - see Chapter 3) (see illustration).

16.12 Disconnect the fuel level sender wiring connector (arrowed)

17.1a Remove the bulbholder from the instrument... 17.1b ... and pull the bulb from the holder

17.3a Remove the screws (arrowed)...

17.3b ... and lift the panel off the cluster

17.3c Remove the bulbholder from the panel...

17.3d ... and the bulb from the holder

13 Connect an insulated jumper wire between the white/yellow and black/yellow terminals on the wiring loom side of the connector. With the ignition switched ON, the fuel gauge should read F (full), and with the ignition switched OFF it should read E (empty). If it doesn't, check the wiring between the connector and the gauge, and check for voltage at the brown wire on the back of the fuel gauge. If the wiring is good, then the gauge is faulty.

14 If the gauge reads correctly when tested, check the fuel level sender inside the fuel tank (see Section 26).

Replacement

15 The fuel gauge is integral with the tachometer. Refer to the tachometer replacement procedure above. If the fuel gauge is faulty, the entire tachometer must be replaced.

17 Instrument and warning light % bulbs - replacement ¡jjk

Instrument bulbs

1 To replace the instrument illumination bulbs, remove the relevant instrument (see Section 16). Gently pull the bulbholder out of the instrument, then pull the bulb out of the bulbholder (see illustrations). Carefully push the new bulb into the holder and the holder into the instrument, then install the instrument back into the casing or the casing onto the instrument (see Section 16).

Warning bulbs

2 To replace the warning light bulbs on US ZR550 B1 and B2 models, remove the instrument cluster (see Section 15), then remove the rear cover. Pull the relevant bulbholder out of the back of the panel. Gently pull the bulb out of the bulbholder. Carefully push the new bulb into position,

18 Oil pressure switch -

check, removal and installation then push the bulbholder back into the rear of the panel.

3 To replace the warning light bulbs on all other models, remove the instrument cluster (see Section 15), then remove the single screw securing the rear cover (see illustration 16.4a). Remove the three small screws securing the warning light panel to the cluster, then separate the panel, noting how the small lugs fit into the holes (see illustrations). Pull the relevant bulbholder out of the back of the panel, then gently pull the bulb out of the bulbholder (see illustrations). Carefully push the new bulb into position, then push the bulbholder back into the rear of the panel.

17.3a Remove the screws (arrowed)...

17.3c Remove the bulbholder from the panel...

Check

1 The oil pressure warning light should come on when the ignition (main) switch is turned ON and extinguish a few seconds after the engine is started. If the oil pressure light comes on whilst the engine is running, stop the engine immediately and carry out an oil pressure check as described in Chapter 1.

2 If the oil pressure warning light does not

17.3b ... and lift the panel off the cluster

17.3d ... and the bulb from the holder

18.8 Oil pressure switch - 550 models except B4 19.8 The switch is secured by two Torx bolts (arrowed)

come on when the ignition is turned on, check the bulb (see Section 17) and fuse (see Section 5).

3 The oil pressure switch is screwed into the sump near the oil filter cover on all 550 models except UK B4 models (see illustration 18.8), and into the right-hand side of the crankcase below the pulse generator assembly on 750 models and UK 550 B4 models - remove the pulse generator assembly cover for access. Remove the screw (where fitted) and detach the wiring connector from the switch. With the ignition switched ON, earth (ground) the wire on the crankcase and check that the warning light comes on. If the light comes on, the switch is defective and must be replaced.

4 If the light still does not come on, check for voltage at the wire terminal using a test light with the ignition switched ON. If there is no voltage present, check the wire between the switch, the instrument cluster and fusebox for continuity (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

5 If the warning light comes on whilst the engine is running, yet the oil pressure is satisfactory, remove the wire from the oil pressure switch. With the wire detached and the ignition switched ON the light should be out. If it is illuminated, the wire between the switch and instrument cluster must be earthed (grounded) at some point. If the wiring is good, the switch must be assumed faulty and replaced.

Removal

6 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

7 The oil pressure switch is screwed into the sump near the oil filter cover on all 550 models except UK B4 models, and into the right-hand side of the crankcase below the pulse generator assembly on 750 models and UK ZR550 B4 models - remove the pulse generator assembly cover for access. Discard the gasket as a new one must be used.

8 Detach the wiring connector from the switch (see illustration).

9 Unscrew the oil pressure switch and withdraw it from the sump or crankcase.

Installation

10 Apply a suitable silicone sealant (Kawasaki Bond or equivalent) to the threads of the switch, then install it in the crankcase and tighten it to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter.

11 On 750 models and UK ZR550 B4 models, install the pulse generator assembly cover using a new gasket and tighten the bolts securely.

12 Fill the engine with the correct type and quantity of oil as described in Chapter 1.

19 Ignition (main) switch -

check, removal and installation

Note: To prevent the risk of short circuits, disconnect the battery negative (-) lead before making any ignition (main) switch checks.

Check

1 Remove the two screws securing the headlight rim to the headlight shell, and ease the rim out of the shell (see illustrations 7.1a and b). Trace the ignition (main) switch wiring back from the base of the switch and disconnect it at the connector in the headlight shell.

2 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity tester, check the continuity of the connector terminal pairs (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter). Continuity should exist between the terminals connected by a solid line on the diagram when the switch is in the indicated position.

3 If the switch fails any of the tests, replace it.

Removal

4 Remove the instrument cluster (Section 15).

5 Remove the handlebars (see Chapter 5).

6 Trace the ignition switch wiring and disconnect it at the connector (see Step 1).

7 Slacken the fork clamp bolts in the top yoke, then remove the steering stem bolt and washer. Lift the top yoke off the steering stem.

8 Remove the two Torx-head bolts to free the ignition switch from the top yoke (see illustration). In the event that special security bolts have been used, which have shear-off heads, their heads must be drilled off.

Installation

9 Install the switch onto the top yoke. Using new special Torx bolts, tighten them until either the tool slips round on the bolt head, or until the bolt head sheers off.

10 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the steering stem bolt and the fork clamp bolts in the top yoke to the torque settings specified at the beginning of Chapter 5. Make sure all wiring is correctly connected and secured by any clips or ties.

20 Handlebar switches - check

1 Generally speaking, the switches are reliable and trouble-free. Most troubles, when they do occur, are caused by dirty or corroded contacts, but wear and breakage of internal parts is a possibility that should not be overlooked. If breakage does occur, the entire switch and related wiring harness will have to be replaced with a new one, since individual parts are not available.

2 The switches can be checked for continuity using an ohmmeter or a continuity test light. Always disconnect the battery negative (-) cable, which will prevent the possibility of a short circuit, before making the checks.

3 Trace the wiring harness of the switch in question back to its connectors and

21.1 Right-hand side handlebar switch wiring connectors

21.5 Left-hand side handlebar switch wiring connectors

21.1 Right-hand side handlebar switch wiring connectors

21.5 Left-hand side handlebar switch wiring connectors disconnect them. The connectors located below the fuel tank. Remove the tank for access (see Chapter 3).

4 Using the ohmmeter or test light, check for continuity between the terminals of the switch harness with the switch in the various positions (ie switch off - no continuity, switch on - continuity) (see the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

5 If the continuity check indicates a problem exists, refer to Section 21, remove the switch and spray the switch contacts with electrical contact cleaner. If they are accessible, the contacts can be scraped clean with a knife or polished with crocus cloth. If switch components are damaged or broken, it will be obvious when the switch is disassembled.

21 Handlebar switches -

removal and installation

Right-hand handlebar switch

Removal

1 If the switch is to be removed from the bike, rather than just displaced from the handlebar, trace the wiring harness back from the switch to the wiring connectors and disconnect them. The connectors are located below the fuel tank (see illustration). Remove the tank for access (see Chapter 3). Work back along the harness, freeing it from all the relevant clips and ties, whilst noting its correct routing.

2 Disconnect the two wires from the brake light switch (see illustration 14.5).

3 Remove the throttle cables from the switch (see Chapter 3 - this procedure incorporates switch removal).

Installation

4 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the locating pin in the front half of the switch fits into hole in the front of the handlebar. Refer to Chapter 3 for installation of the throttle cables.

Left-hand handlebar switch Removal

5 If the switch is to be removed from the bike, rather than just displaced from the handlebar, trace the wiring harness back from the switch to the wiring connectors and disconnect them; the connectors are located below the fuel tank (see illustration). Remove the tank for access (see Chapter 3). Work back along the harness, freeing it from all the relevant clips and ties, whilst noting its correct routing.

6 Disconnect the clutch switch wiring connector (see illustration 24.2).

7 Remove the choke cable from the switch (see Chapter 3 - this procedure incorporates switch removal).

Installation

8 Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the locating pin in the front half of the switch fits into hole in the front of the handlebar. Refer to Chapter 3 for installation of the choke cable.

22 Neutral switch - check, removal and installation

DIY Battery Repair

DIY Battery Repair

You can now recondition your old batteries at home and bring them back to 100 percent of their working condition. This guide will enable you to revive All NiCd batteries regardless of brand and battery volt. It will give you the required information on how to re-energize and revive your NiCd batteries through the RVD process, charging method and charging guidelines.

Get My Free Ebook


Post a comment