Emergency maintenance

Rear chain replacement is a messy task. If the chain breaks whilst on the move you are likely to have to stop for some time to come. No attemr .»til be given here as to how to fit a chain once it has come off its gearbox sprocket — it's very , w, fiddly.

To replace a chain for whatever reason. . oosen the adjusters on the swing arm as previously described. Split the chain at the spring link ar.: men attach the replacement chain to the one about to be removed and 'pull it through". Let go the :.: chain and fasten the new one. Then go through the chain adjustment procedure.

★ If the clutch cable breaks remove ah the broken' bits that are visible. Loosen the lever adjuster to its slackest. Note where the cable rocte has taken it from lever to gearbox. Remove the rubber cap on the gearbox side cover anr : me clutch cable's nipple out of its keeper. Do NOT dismantle the split pin/keeper. If you do that .: :j could end-up with taking half the gearbox apart.

Fix the new cable, previously oiiec mta the gearbox first. Screw the outer adjuster (a little graphited grease on the threads helps frrzt - - efthand side of the machine with its lock nut at its 'slackest'. Push the cable's nipple into :ts teeper through the orifice in the gearbox cover. Now thread the cable outer through the ma :hme 1" s best to remove the tank and seat for this. If done properly the factory route does work — between the carburettors (middle and left for the Triple), along top of engine then to the rtgm of the steering head.

Now push in the clutch release arm with the top nose of a pair of vise grips or similar. Now try to pull the cable's top nipple into the handle tar ever. Once it's in and properly located, pull out the vise grip to leave the release arm free Admst the cable at the gearbox end first to a point where reasonable final adjustment can be made at the hand lever end. A play of 1.0 - 2.5mm is reasonable. Try the clutch under load. Check for slipping.

★ Other cables are no easier to replace unfortunately. Brake cables on the drum braked machine seldom fail because they tend to operate in a straight line, but they do stretch — 20,000 miles should be their life. Before replacement takes place, put all the adjustment back into the cable that you can. Once the cable's outer is as slack as possible, removal and replacement becomes straightforward. For front drum brakes it's an obvious procedure, so it is fcr rear drums too, if a little more laborious.

★ Throttle and choke cables are a nuisance. Many types and layouts have been used over the years and it's impossible to describe every sort. One thing is clear — remove the tank first. As a principle for throttle cables it always helps to dismantle the throttle twistgrip first, once any adjustment facility there has been 'put back in'. Machines using the one-into-two connector will be fighting the slide springs in the carburettors — be prepared for a long struggle. Fill them with light grease upon refitment. At the outset take the tops off the carburettors, carefully pull out the slides and start from there. Work carefully and slowly — don't damage the slides. The latter applies for both throttle and choke cables.

★ The Twins dynamo belt is usually very reliable. It's a flat belt which is not adjustable. If it breaks (the charging light stays on), remove the dynamo cover and check. If broken, inspect to ascertain why it has broken, then replace. Put the belt on the start freewheel and spoon it over the dynamo pulley with a screwdriver. Replace the belt every 25,000 miles anyway.

★ Tyres and their fitment, particularly by the side of the road after a puncture, is a serious business. It is therefore dealt with further on in this book under a special section on its own.

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