Six monthly or every 6000 miles

Undertake the previous service jobs plus the ones given next.

★ Air filter maintenance is very important to the free running of the engine. The 6 monthly/6000 mile maintenance schedule is only a guide; it may be necessary to check the air filter more often in dusty conditions. There are three basic types of filter used; pre-October 1972 and post-October Twins (although not all machines were so fitted), and Triples.

For the early Twins, remove the seat, fuel tank and battery. Unscrew and take off the carburettor bellmouths and inlet trunking. An inlet air-space box is fixed to the battery container by four bolts — remove these four — and pull out the airbox and filter cartridge towards the carburettors. Detach the filter cartridge from the airbox. It too has four bolts, two of which are accessible through the intake holes on the airbox. Take out the filter from the left-hand side of the machine once the side panels are removed; the airbox from the right. Carefully blow the filter clean from the inside with an air line. Throw it away and replace if it is old and well-soiled. Replacement is the reverse of the above. Check the fit of rubber trunking from the carburettors to airbox.

The second generation air filter fitted to an SF. However you remove the filter, it's a tight fit
Laverda Petrol Taps

Th s close-up of the petrol tap shows you how to take it apart quite well

Th s close-up of the petrol tap shows you how to take it apart quite well

The Triple's air filter "'des behind that black cover and the side panel. Font-ately the 1200's side panel has a fixing screw

Tap Tight Screws
Here's the latest plastic fuel tap. This one comes apart by removing the tap holding 'ring' fixed by two screws. It is fitted to an Anniversary 1200 in this shot

The Triple's air filter "'des behind that black cover and the side panel. Font-ately the 1200's side panel has a fixing screw

The later Twins use a strictly replaceable air filter only. It is possible to wash it with soapy water if you are careful. Allow it to dry. If you are unsure, replace it. To remove it, take off the side panels, seat, tank and battery. Remove the carb-to-airbox rubber tubes. Remove the four bolts which locate the airbox to the battery tray and frame; two are taken from above, but beneath the wiring junction box which has to be pushed aside, and two from below. Push the airbox/filter towards the engine and then undo the rear cover nuts, lift out that cover and then pull out the filter over the studs. Leave the tubular spacer on the studs. Replacement is a reverse procedure but make sure the filter sits fully in the channels made for it on the airbox and its cover. Also make sure that it is positioned in the frame proper. , so that the side panels will fit squarely. Check the rubber trunking.

The Triple filter is a petrol-clean filter which should be blown dry with an air line. It is removed in a similar method that that of the ¿ate Twins up to the point where the airbox/filter is loose. The filter slips out of the airbox: it ^ 3ot bolted.

* The fuel system has a number of filters rich require periodic cleaning: the carburettor float chambers and balance pipe also hold sedrrem: sometimes.

Attempt the fuel tap filter cleaning w.:r tre fuel tank as empty as possible. Drain the tank, on both sides; with the tap 'off, remove the rjec _ine fixed to it and substitute another long piece and then direct the flow into a can or jug. Wher the :ank is dry remove the fuel taps by undoing the lock nut closest to the tank (the body of the tap is e::-hand threaded). Remove the lock nut and washer. Then unscrew the little plastic filter tunne. ar: wash the whole thing free from any sediment in the petrol just drained off. With a brass wire rr_sr i jede shoe type) brush the whole tap clean. Do not dismantle the tap further, there's little pair- ?^=ciace the filter tunnel and screw up the tap into the tank. Juggle with the lock nut and body _r pair are nicely settled in the tank, with the body facing the right way around and so tha: rf i tight in the tank and will not leak. It can take a few minutes. Test the tap — Off = forwart ronxontal. On = vertical. On/Reserve = rearward horizontal.

NOTE: Some early taps, most Germar marist machines and 1979 built machines have taps which have clear plastic bodies. These rr r Zis rc additional problem.

Each carburettor has a filter in ::s too r re point where the fuel enters it from the fuel pipe. Undo the slotted nut and pull away the -nr—.- filter cover. Carefully pick out the nylon circular filter and blow it clean. Brush out w.tr peer:. ar sediment left in the body. It's a fiddly o'o for the one/two left hand carburettor(s) — 5 rraaafcad screwdriver or small socket set are most useful. Replace the filter and tighten the cover

The float chamber of each cartmltar needs careful handling — its rubber-flag gasket stretches, pops out of its groove and is wn nfficult to get back.

Do not undertake this job unless . :«. rave some spare gaskets. Using a socket or ring spanner, undo the centre floatchamber bolt, r: : r; le floatchamber up to the carburettor body. Have a piece of rag below to catch-the fuel It the filters were clean, just remove the bolt, drain the carburettor and replace the bolt. If the filters were a little dirty, remove the bolt and then carefully lower the floatchamber. Clean the charter and watch the gasket. Carefully replace the chamber up to the body, and replace the bolt. \la*e sure the gasket seats.

* Cable lubrication is very importar: Use light machine oil — if the oil won't flow down the cables, pour a little petrol of WD40 down the cable first — that cuts a path for the 01L Tre clutch cable is most important. Remove the cable at the lever end — remove the rubber seal on the right hand side of the gearbox to gain access to the clutch arm. Pull the clutch lever fully in. then hold the clutch arm in with the top nose of a pair of grips, through the hole in the gearbox outer casing. The clutch will then be compressed. Loosen the cable at the lever and remove it from the lever. Leave the adjuster at the other end.

Pour oil down the cable using a pressure oiler or a plasticene funnel. Wait for the oil to pass all the way down the cable. Then put the whole thing back together again, remove the grips, replace the rubber cover and adjust the lever freeplay to between 1 and 2.5mm.

Use the same method for all brake cables, even those at the rear.

The throttle cable(s) requires the same treatment. Dismantle the twistgrip as necessary to gain access to the top of the cable(s). Use the same method as given above but don't flood the cable.

The oil's progress down the cable will be slower. The choke cable will need the same treatment too. Oiling the two very short cables from the two cable connections for one-into-two systems for the throttle and choke systems is not worth worrying about. If you do have to dismantle these systems for any other reason oil those cables then.

★ Clutch adjustment can usually be made at the release lever. There should be play there of 1.0 -2.5mm. If this freeplay cannot be maintained then make some adjustment at the other end of the cable. Loosen the cable lock nut and then screw out the cable outer to lengthen the outer cable. Lock the adjuster and obtain the necessary freeplay at the lever. Special spanners are used by the factory to adjust the cable but it is possible to use an open ended spanner instead.

The hydraulic clutch on the 1200 Anniversary models and on any machines which are retrofitted does not require clutch adjustment in the same way as that of the cable clutch. Now would, however, be a good time to check the hydraulic clutch through. To so do, read Chapter 1 under the appropriate section.

* Of course, valve clearance and camchain adjustment is quite different. Twin from Triple. In fact, they are perhaps the two most significantly different maintenance tasks.

The Twin is simplest. The engine must be COLD. Remove the seat, fuel tank and dynamo cover. Take out the spark plugs. Remove the four valve rocker covers making sure their gaskets stay intact. Turn the crankshaft clockwise as described when setting the ignition timing until the PM mark aligns with the mark on the crankcase. You then have both pistons at TDC, with one piston on its compression stroke with both valves closed. Ascertain which piston that is by finding the one which has both rocker arms 'loose'. Measure the rocker arm to valve clearance on both valves — 0.15mm inlet, 0.20mm exhaust. The feeler blade should be a tight sliding fit. Adjust the clearance if necessary by using a small ring spanner for the lock nut and very small parrot jaw adjustable for the adjusting screw. Once adjusted, lock the adjuster and check once more. It's better the clearances are slightly too loose than too tight.

Rotate the engine one revolution and use the same method for the other cylinder. Replace the covers, spark plugs and other fitments.

Leaving the dynamo cover off and with the engine still at TDC tension the camchain. To the rear of the cylinders is an adjusting plunger which is locked by a bolt and lock nut at right angles to it. Using a socket and long extension, and a short ring spanner, unlock the lock bolt and press the plunger towards the engine, then let it free and lock up the lock bolt again. Tension then becomes automatic. Replace the dynamo cover. [The adjuster sometimes siezes in the alloy casing — ensure it's free).

An out of perspective drawing of the clutch cable The Twin's simple tappet clearance adjustment adjustment taking place at the gearbox end. Here a special tool is being used - a short open-ended spanner will do the job

★ Valve clearance checking is more complicated for the Triples but not too difficult. It is desirable to have a 0 - 25mm micrometer screw gauge to measure the shims, however. The engine must be COLD.

Remove the tank, seat, magneto flywheel cover on the right hand side. Disconnect, at the cam cover, the rev counter cable and tie it up. Use an alien key and undo all the alien screws which locate the cam cover to the cylinder head, noting very carefully where the copper washers lie — there may be two on one alien screw (back to that later Leave the cam cover gasket in place unless it's damaged — it's glued in and will las: tor many removals. With a feeler blade check and write down all the cam lobe to valve stem clearances — for each valve the cam lobe must be pointed in the opposite direction to the valve head Turn the engine to get to each valve with a socket on the magneto nut.

Cylinder Head Laverda

For your interest only - this photograph an-: Although this Triple's cylinder head is off the show the difference in lobe shape, and there~: -f cankcase, it shows the valve clearance components

For your interest only - this photograph an-: Although this Triple's cylinder head is off the show the difference in lobe shape, and there~: -f cankcase, it shows the valve clearance components

Wiring Diagram Laverda

The arrow shows the split link, which should be Here's the wire around the camchain end. The chain between the two sprockets. The fingers are testing the tensioner has already been removed (as for this chain tension photograph have the carburettors)

The arrow shows the split link, which should be Here's the wire around the camchain end. The chain between the two sprockets. The fingers are testing the tensioner has already been removed (as for this chain tension photograph have the carburettors)

A piece of rag stops bits falling into the crankcase. One camshaft is removed and the other is about to be. Note that the lobes are not opening any of the three valves

Lift a camshaft off thus. Note the split centre bearing

A piece of rag stops bits falling into the crankcase. One camshaft is removed and the other is about to be. Note that the lobes are not opening any of the three valves

Lift a camshaft off thus. Note the split centre bearing

52507037

52507037

Wire up the centre bearing so that it cannot be muddled Note the oil feed hole

A good cross-section drawing of the Triple's valve clearance shim in place

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Note the other oil feed holes in the other camshaft bearings. Placed the wrong way around and your camshaft will run dry - but will run for only a short time!

How to measure a Triple's valve clearance shim (cap)

Note the other oil feed holes in the other camshaft bearings. Placed the wrong way around and your camshaft will run dry - but will run for only a short time!

Each inlet should be 0.20mm, each exhaust 0.25mm. If any one inlet clearance is out you must remove the camshaft; and in the same way for the exhaust side. Loosen the cam chain tensioner which is at the back of the cylinder barrel. It's a lock nut and bolt. Loosen and then unscrew half a dozen turns. You'll have to pull the entire chain tensioner blade up — you can't turn the camshafts for a recheck without connecting the camchain ends. There isn't room between the inlet cam sprocket and the tensioner to turn the camshaft without also turning the crankshaft.

Turn the engine over until the cam chain's split link is between each cam sprocket. Split the chain in the normal way and place wire through each end of the cam chain, but separately, and tie that wire to something on the front and back of the engine. Don't let the cam chain slip into the engine. The cam chain won't slip off the crankshaft sprocket.

Each camshaft is fixed by three bearing caps. Before loosening the six fixing bolts, in a progressive diagonal pattern, make sure that the camshaft you are working on is not compressing any valves, i.e. no valves on that cam are open the camshaft will bend as you undo the bearing caps if any valves are open!). Make sure you note the position of the lobes on that cam before removal. Lift the camshaft with its three bearing caps up and away complete. The centre bearing is a split bearing and you will need to pull up its lower half. Don't mix the bearing caps, nuts and washers. Pull up the camfollowers and note their positions for refitment over the same valves. Remove the cap shims, noting on which valve they fit and then measure them with the micrometer screw gauge. Then cross-refer their thicknesses with the clearances obtained for their valves and calculate what thickness of shim should be replaced. Cap shims come in the following thicknesses: 1.85, 1.93, 2.00, 2.07, 2.15, 2.23, 2.30, 2.38. 2.45. 2.52 and 2.60mm.

Replace the correct cap shims (check your calculations again) and replace the camfollowers. Replace the two camshafts with their bearings, and float plates (first) onto the respective studs (inlet cam has the rev counter worm). It's .important that the centre bearing fits as a pair and to keep them the right way round. (If they are fitted incorrectly oil will not be fed to the camshaft and that will eventually seize the camshaft). If a mistake occurs it's important to appreciate that the oil comes up the centre head studs and from there spurts onto the cams. Make sure that the oil holes on the cam bearings face respective cam followers and that the holes are on the 'centre stud' side of the bearing (as the oil comes up along the studs).

Before fitting the bearing cap nuts and washers and tightening down the camshafts remember two things: first, position each cam so that no valves open as you tighten it down. See the diagram. Replace them in the position they were m wnen you removed them. Secondly, the inner studs, i.e. those between the two camshafts, are cylinder head studs too. This means that the inner studs of the bearing caps require a different type of nut and washer to those of the outer studs. The twelve inner studs are 9mm, the ones outside the camshaft 8mm. Don't mix them. Tighten each camshaft down progressively and diagonally with a normal' spanner. Before you reach the point when the nuts are tight-tight check that the camshafts have a 'loose' motion about them before any one lobe starts to act on its valve. If the cam does not. tap the camshaft at right angles to it with a piece of very hard wod or with a brass or alloy drift and hammer. Finally tighten and check this motion again.

With a torque wrench, check the cylinder head nuts for tightness — all should be 25.3 ft.lb. the outer camshaft bearing nuts should be ignored. Follow the sequence down.

Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the magneto aligns with the mark on the crankcase with the two outer cylinders at TDC. Check this by looking through the spark plug holes. Now turn each camshaft as short a distance as possible so that the mark on each camshaft sprocket visible from the righthand side is uppermost, directly above the pedestal of the centre bearing caps. The marks should be exactly parallel. To turn the camshaft use a spanner on one of the sprocket to camshaft bolts, or use a spare piece of chain. It's not easy. Note that if you turn the camshafts for valve clearance check, the pistons can't be at TDC as the valves will hit the pistons. Remember, when turning the crankshaft, to keep the camchain tight. Otherwise it will fold double under the crankshaft sprocket and break the protection (58110115).

Now draw up each end of the camchain, place them over the sprockets' teeth and replace the split link with the open end facing the carburettors. It should all fit together fairly easily. Use a new split link every time the chain is undone. (Racing machines should use a rivet).

Here's a typical camshaft bearing shim. Don't forget them r

Once the cam is in place but before the bearings are tightened at all fou can turn the cam so that no valves actually open <wt e you tighten it down with a spanner on the cam sprocket)

Here's a typical camshaft bearing shim. Don't forget them r

Once the cam is in place but before the bearings are tightened at all fou can turn the cam so that no valves actually open <wt e you tighten it down with a spanner on the cam sprocket)

Before your tighten the camshaft bearings finally tap The tightening sequence for the Triple's cylinder head the shaft lightly with a 'soft' drift to centre it. It should run free

Cylinder Head LaverdaCylinder Head Laverda

There s a mark on the magneto - which must align The two marks on the camshaft sprockets now appear with the one on the inner alternator cover when trying parallel to each other - and the camchain split link is to find TDC on the two outer cylinders in the centre

Adjust the tension of the camchain (recheck that the two outer pistons are still at TDC) by tightening the lock bolt of the adjuster until there is a total movement of 10mm (5mm above and below a horizontal line) of the top run of the chain, between the two camshaft sprockets. Lock the bolt with the lock nut.

Squirt a little engine oil over the cams and on the chain, and replace the cam cover. Make sure the gasket is still good and recheck that all the copper washers under the alien screws are in the correct places. These washers stop oil leaks be: also stop the alien screws from bottoming in their drillings. Add copper washers if the alien screws don't tighten correctly. Replace the rev counter drive cable ant ail the other components.

Once a year or every 12,000 miles

Undertake all the previous tasks mentioo.ee ex cept those which obviously contradict what follows. For example, spark plug replacement.

★ Remove all spark plugs, check what than ioc* like for your own piece of mind and throw them away. Replace them with new plugs of the c:rrect grade, properly gapped. Once again use a little graphited grease on the threads to ease ftifisre removal.

★ When checking the contact points on tee 7 -.cas. before 'gapping" them, check the condition of the two contacting surfaces of both the movixs and fixed contacts. If there appears to be wear and the equivalent build-up on each of the pairs points, replace them. This is easily done. Start with the right hand pair. Loosen the nut which fcdkls one little wire from the moving contact onto the fixed contact plate. It's perhaps easiest to remove the nut fully, but note exactly where the various washers etc. are placed in relation to the wore - : intact. Carefully lift off the moving contact form its stud. Next undo and remove the sere* o n holds the fixed contact to the backing plate.

Replace a new set of contacts in an exacth opposite procedure.

Now remove and replace the second set :i contacts.

Once both contact sets are replaced sc he i s and set the gap of the righthand set, as previously described. Then set the gap of the lef thane set

It may be possible to restore the oía cant a cos :: their former glory. If burning on the two points is not severe, you can dress-off the surta ees ¿: coa: they are still parallel to each other. An oil stone does this best. Dress-off the peak and rem:. e eoiae :■: the surrounding material of the pit — but do not go too far with either. If in doubt thrci ic e ivd contacts away.

★ The starter freewheel on the Twin does need some maintenance by way of lubrication, but unfortunately it is really necessary to ha ve o erda special tool to remove it before any servicing can take place. The tool number is as :: _ic>.; 61318971. Sometimes it can be tapped free with a hide-headed hammer. The starter free .vo.ee . :e the Triple is properly lubricated using sufficient engine oil 'mist'.

Laverda Triple Pictures
The Triple's camchain direction of rotation and In the centre of this shot is the starter freewheel. That direction of the spring link centre nut has a left hand thread

1 The early type forks (always Cerianl) required a large socket to undo them the valve screw (shown here) actually made no difference to the method used to undo them

2 Marzocchi forks require the use of a socket head key (Allen key) to undo them and once again the screw is ignored

3 Front fork fluid replenishment - again the actual area is not that clear of cables and handlebars!

On the Twin the starter freewheel hides behind the dynamo cover — remove this first. Remove the dynamo belt by slipping it off with a screwdriver. Then with a socket remove the starter freewheel nut (note, lefthand thread) which holds it tight to the crankshaft, outside the starter chain wheel. Mount the special extractor tool to the starter freewheel and draw it off slowly. It has a taper fit over a key. Now dismantle the freewheel removing each spring, peg and roller; (3 rollers up to October 1969, 6 thereafter). Grease them all lightly but thoroughly with high melting point grease and replace them as you found them. Replace all the components in a reverse sequence. Tap the starter freewheel qhto its taper with a hide-headed hammer. Tighten the lock nut.

Regular greasing is essential, to avoid seizure and a terrible noise. ★ The front forks need fresh oil in each leg once a year. Place the machine on its centre stand and drain one leg at a time. If you attempt both legs at once, the front of the machine will eventually collapse. Place a tray alongside the front wheel under the drain plug to the rear of the leg. Remove the screw plug and let the fluid shoot out. Go to the top of that leg and unscrew and remove the fork leg cap using an appropriate socket or key. Each leg cap may be tight — be patient.

Clean up the cap and make sure its rubber O-ring is intact. Wait for the oil to drain fully from the leg. Five minutes should suffice but pumping the forks will speed things up. Replace the drain plug making sure its copper washer is intact. Then with a funnel pour the appropriate quantity of the specified fluid into the leg, down the centre of the spring.

Pump the legs to let the fluid settle without air blocks and replace the top cap. Be careful with its alloy thread. It's best to start it off with your fingers working on the cap with just the socket head or key for grip.

Repeat the whole operation on the other leg. Check the efficiency of the seals at the top of the sliders. On some machines it may be necessary to loosen the handlebar levers and switches to get at the fork leg caps.

1 The early type forks (always Cerianl) required a large socket to undo them the valve screw (shown here) actually made no difference to the method used to undo them

2 Marzocchi forks require the use of a socket head key (Allen key) to undo them and once again the screw is ignored

3 Front fork fluid replenishment - again the actual area is not that clear of cables and handlebars!

NOTE: Further items of servicing are not included here in this section because they occur either at service periods outside the 12 month/12,000 period or because they are usually considered part of some other more complicated job. They can be found later in the book. Nevertheless they should not be overlooked. They are as follows: Cylinder head tightening: Twins (500 miles and 5.000 miles) Primary chain replacement (15,000 miles Dynamp belt: Twins (replace every 25,000 miles Brake hydraulic fluid changing (yearly or 12.000 miles)

Brake pad (disc) and shoe lining (drum) replacement (check, at least, every 6,000 miles) Drum brake adjustment (check, at least, yearly Drum brake cables (replace every 20.000 ir_.es Carburettor synchronization

The last three items should be undertaken when found to be necessary. Remember that different riders wear components at different rates and some machines go out of tune at different times. As far as carburettors are concerned, however, they are best left alone (except for filter/float chamber cleaning) when they are :ce rating well.

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