Swingarm bushes

Rubber bushes — the Silentbloc rubber bushes — are easily removed by tapping a drift through from the opposite side of the swingarm and carefully driving them out. A spacer tube is fitted between them.

Replacement is quite straightforward — don't forget the spacer tube between the two bushes.

Bronze bushes — remove the grease nipple from the underside of the swing arm before attempting to work on the bronze bushes. The pivot pin does not itself bear on the bronze bushes, instead a steel tube does. This steel tube has spiral cuts in its outer to enable grease, which is pumped through the grease nipple, to lubricate the bronze bushes. The bronze bushes wear, whilst the steel tube does not. First tap the steel tube through the bushes, then tap the bronze bushes

The standard rubber bushed swingarm

The bronze bushed swingarm (note the grease nipple)

The roller bearing swingarm through, using a suitable drift. The drift must be used through the swingarm because the bushes have a lip on their outer edge to locate them properly in the swingarm.

Replacement should be quite straightforward. Make sure all is very clean, then grease the steel tube well, install, and then pump grease through the re-installed grease nipple until you can be sure the space inside the swingarm pivot is full.

NOTE: Bronze bushes are sometimes a very tight fit. Although not designed for reaming it may be necessary so to do once they are tapped home. If difficulty is experienced heat the swingarm in an oven. Before refitting repeat that and freeze the bushes in a refrigerator.

Roller bearings — roller bearing swingarms are a little more complicated. Remove the grease nipple. Retain the two end seal washers which should have dropped when the swingarm was removed. The two roller bearings are in the outer ends of the swingarm, within each one is a steel bush the same width as the bearing itself — these bushes are the ones which 'roll'. Pick each one out carefully. (There's a distance piece, with a spacer at each end, in the middle). Now very carefully, with a suitable drift, tap out the bearing cage through from the opposite side. Note the order of everything.

Replacement is a straightforward reverse sequence. Use high quality, high melting point grease, and make sure all is packed through.

NOTE: It is possible to convert non-roller bearing swingarms to rollers, but sophisticated machinery is necessary to attain correct alignment.

Bodywork care

In this small section I am going to include components which do not logically fit elsewhere — this means everything from the front mudguard to the rear number plate, including the fuel tank. Cleaning instruction will apply to all.

Laverda bodywork has changed over the years, so has its quality. However, no matter how much of a quality improvement the machines now have, no one at the factory will deny that Laverda paintwork, plastics and chrome plating does need constant care. The following are basic guidelines only:

Never wipe clean your machine without using some form of liquid cleaner to 'lubricate' the surface. Preferably use warm water and a little washing-up liquid, or similar. Wipe the excess water off with a damp, non-fluffy rag. which you should wring,out constantly. When the surfaces are dry, use a good quality car wax sparingly — use it on every surface except the seat, perspex, rubber and engine castings. Avoid scratching, for this abrasion starts the deterioration process.

I don't recommend that metal 'pohshers are used. WD40 is the Laverda owner's friend. Spray as much of your machine, except tyres and seat, with it as you can. It is a superb preservative.

Front and rear mudguards

The Italian for mudguard is parafango — most Laverda parafanghi have been very good. All are stainless steel, except the SFC which has glass fibre and Marzocchi forked Triples which are chromed steel. All brackets are chromea steel, however, and it's the brackets which have caused the most headaches.

Front drum-braked machines have four or two-piece front top brackets which split at the fork legs. Each bracket mounts the fork leg on each side by two setscrews. The mudguard, itself, is also mounted by two nuts and bolts to each bracket. The brackets are not rubber-mounted and will sometimes fracture. Early front disc brake machines have one-piece brackets which mount in a similar manner to the two-piece brackets. These 'solid' mounted brackets were very prone to fracture on the bracket-to-mudguard hps. Most later machines had rubber mounted brackets, and these mean no more fractures. The one-piece rubber mounted bracket looks similar to the 'solid' one. Where the bracket to fork leg setscrews pass through, there is a rubber grommet which holds a metal sleeve. The setscrew bolts the sleeve solid to the fork leg, leaving the mudguard bracket to 'dance' on the grommet located on the sleeve.

It is possible to convert 'solid' to rubber brackets, on disc brake machines, by changing the complete bracket. All Marzocchi forked machines have what appears to be an integral mudguard and bracket (rivetted together) although the two brackets are separate parts. The guard's removal is similar to that of the bracket.

SFC glass fibre mudguards are located with two hose clips to the fork legs; an anti-vibration pad is used between leg and guard. These guards are not noted for their strength. Only plastic replicas are currently available.

Rear mudguards are much more complicated and appear to be part of the frame. There is a lot of work involved in removing one, and it should not be undertaken lightly. Although it is located simply to the frame by a series of nuts and bolts proceed as follows:

1. Remove the seat.

2. Remove the rear lamp, flashers, and number plate complete.

3. Disconnect the wiring for the rear light/flashers wiring, then unclip the harness from the underside of the mudguard.

4. Undo the various fixing bolts, some may be found in a tight spot.

Replacement is obviously a reverse sequence.

The SFC rear mudguard is a minute panel which is simply removed once the seat is taken off the machine.

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    Can bronze be ised as motorcycle swing arm bushing?
    5 years ago

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