Them if you find them Look at your bribes BMnli wmd reios W seals etc

Cables

Laverdas have a reputation for breakrri : - . - - * tre tree play in all the cables. Check also for fraying or broken strands. Rett.; e nm- ¿e : r - : r other cable is visibly tired. Check hydraulic hoses for chafing and weep -, 1«: - : :«e —-: :. water spots on the pipes — this is brake fluid's propensity for attracting eter r _re

'Miss the law'

Lights, flashers, horns and instruments - —ust. of course, the brakes. Check them all just before you start off.

Lubrication

Engine/transmission oil — Laverda engir.es in ;joc condition, even with high mileage, do not use oil. They are not known as 'oil burners". Nevertheless always check the oil level. On the Twin it is necessary to unscrew the oil dipstick, taking care not to loose the cork washer (early type) and rubber O ring (later). Allow the dipstick to sit on the orifice for 10 or so seconds once you have unscrewed it. Then lift it gently upwards, but slightly towards the air cleaner so that it can pass up and away between the carburettor and the air cleaner. The correct level is marked on the dipstick. Don't overfill, there's no point. But don't underfill either.

1 Laverda's unusual crankcase oil dipstick - this machine is a 750S but a similar component and method is used for all machines

Z Qesr chain adjustment is straightforward orom led you obey the usual rules. Ar-owed here are the two adjuster nuts on one side.

1 Laverda's unusual crankcase oil dipstick - this machine is a 750S but a similar component and method is used for all machines

Z Qesr chain adjustment is straightforward orom led you obey the usual rules. Ar-owed here are the two adjuster nuts on one side.

The Triple uses the same method although it is essential that the dipstick is fully unscrewed and lifted slightly, and then allowed to rest on the crankcase vertically (it screws in at an angle). Leave it for 30 seconds and then lift it vertically. Use a funnel :: pour oil into the crankcase.

*Both a time and mileage frequency is given to suit all types of riders and usage. Rear chain

Adjust and lubricate the rear drive chain regularly — it will prolong ;ts life.

Chain adjustment is the same for every model although if a factory chaincase is fitted, it's slightly different again. Proper adjustment is reached when the lower run has approximately 10 -25mm total free movement up and down in the centre of its run I: achieve this, proceed as follows. Put the machine on the centre stand — it helps if the rear wheel can then freely revolve. Undo a few turns, one of the rear wheel spindle nuts. On drum brajte nodels, then loosen the rear brake torque arm at each end. That may mean removing the spit" pms first. On rear disc brake models, loosen the caliper bracket locking bolt.

Unscrew the two locking nuts on the two adjusters without tur~ ig the adjusters. To tighten the chain turn EACH adjuster one flat at a time to keep the wheel m alignment. There are no adjuster marks on the swing arm. Proper adjustment should be made with another person sitting on the machine with the machine off its stand. Experience will allow adjustment without this last operation. Hold each adjuster and then tighten their lock nuts. Tignten the spindle nut and the torque arm nuts (drum brake) or caliper bracket lock bolt (disc brake).

Da cfcaincaae machines check the tension by placing the machine in 1st gear measuring aniwBsiDant of the wheel at the wheel rim — it should be IV* inches.

cper chain tension is essential — it avoids excessive wear on the sprockets and aids smooth psar -ranging.

U*am lubrication is essential. Use a good sticky lubricant made for the job. Put it on the bottom -hi rc the inner edges of the sideplates and on the roller ends, both sides. Turn the rear wheel to ; imere this. On chaincase machines, remove the end cover and do your lubricating from there, as lest you can. Remember the chaincase keeps grit away from the chain but it does make it run a ictje hotter — lubrication is still necessary.

5cx weekly or every 1500 miles

I csiously do what has been suggested in the previous maintenance section plus the following. -» Check the battery electrolyte level. Gaining access to the Laverda battery is fiddly. Remove or * "ge the seat, depending on model. Take off both side panels. Loosen the rubber band which holds "_ae battery firm. A metal 'T' piece usually holds it. To gain access to the cells for those batteries A-.th covers, first disconnect the earth terminal and push aside the connections. Then tilt the cattery slightly and pull the cover through the frame to the right side. An alternative method is to _se a slim screwdriver to lift the battery plug strip with the cover together. Reverse the procedure to refit.

Top up those cells which appear to be low to just above the plates, using distilled water. Take care not to flood the machine. If any acid is spilt, neutralise it immediately with an alkali such as washing soda — use plenty of water too. If the spillage is bad, top up the battery with sulphuric acid. Check that the overflow pipe is functiururLg properly, if fitted The battery is expensive. Take care with it.

The early Twin battery cover. The cover dom emmmutt Ttm Mar Tmm* Mfaary tatmHon. Note ttmnUbmtamd easily on this model across 9m Hp aarf 9m tack of room betwmm DM

The early Twin battery cover. The cover dom emmmutt Ttm Mar Tmm* Mfaary tatmHon. Note ttmnUbmtamd easily on this model across 9m Hp aarf 9m tack of room betwmm DM

The Triple's battery carrier and strap. This is a CD! The carrier here is featured on a late Triple with BTZ ignition model ignition. Note the 'plastic' case for the battery and metal side clamp

The Triple's battery carrier and strap. This is a CD! The carrier here is featured on a late Triple with BTZ ignition model ignition. Note the 'plastic' case for the battery and metal side clamp

1 The Twin's oil sump plug is the oil filter too

2 The Triple's sump drain plug

3 This is the Triple's oil filter (engine out of the frame). The Twin's filter is not dissimilar although perhaps a little bigger - it also performs the function of sump plug

★ Change the engine/transmission oil. First run the machine so that the engine is hot and the oil 'thin'. Place the bike on its centre stand in a spot out of the wind. On Twins, undo all four nuts on the cover plate beneath the crankcase. Place two screwdrivers opposite each other in the bevels provided in the cover plate, having put a large bowl beneath the engine to catch the hot oil. Lever the cover plate down over the studs. Eventually catch the cover plate/oil filter and its gasket.

The factory drain the oil by loosening the gear shift cover to speed up the process. Don't use this method unless further dismantling still is to be undertaken.

Let the oil drain for at least ten minutes. Look at the dirty oil and see if there are any visible impurities such as metal swarf. Clean the oil filter in petrol. Check the cover plate gasket and replace if damaged. Then replace the cover plate carefully and tighten the four nuts. Replace new oil into the crankcase using a funnel, through the orifice in which the dipstick sits. (Use gearbox cover filter on the SFC).

For the Triples it is only necessary to clean the oil filter every two oil changes, although when that is done use exactly the same method as for the Twins, although on the Triple the exhaust down pipes will have to be dropped. A simple oil change is undertaken by draining the old oil through a second, smaller draining orifice virtually under the gearbox. It is held tight by a conventional oil plug.

NOTE: The oil specification gives 20W/50 as the recommended grade, with 50 and 10W/40 as alternatives. That needs clarifying. For normal road use in a generally temperate climate use a good quality 20W/50 — Bel-Ray, Castrol, Shell, Elf, Sunoco and the factory's favourite, Total, will all do. In really cold climates, and for the Triples in temperate climates where the winters are cold, you may gain benefit from using 10W/40. The benefit will come from easier starting and quicker warm-up — nothing else. 50 weight oil is an alternative in warm/hot climates where the machine is going to be used hard for long periods of time — racing may suggest 50 weight, although the Slater Jota racers use 20W 50. These oils are relatively difficult to obtain although Bel-Ray, Castrol and Gulf do make them. The best oil, if you can afford it, is Mobil's synthetic SHC which is effectively a 10W/70.

* Lubricate the swingarm. For all those machines with rubber bushes in the swingarm no actual maintenance is available. Once worn, replacment is the only solution. On bronze bush and needle roller models, greasing is necessary. On the underside of the swingarm cross tube is a grease nipple. Clean this first, then with a high pressure greasegun pump four five shots of grease in. Check the rubber caps at each inner end of the swingarm too. The grease nipples often break — accessory shop replacements are usually better.

1 The Twin's oil sump plug is the oil filter too

2 The Triple's sump drain plug

3 This is the Triple's oil filter (engine out of the frame). The Twin's filter is not dissimilar although perhaps a little bigger - it also performs the function of sump plug

1 The swing arm's grease nipple (bronze bus - arc needle roller types only) has to be approac^ec from below

2 Steering head bearing adjustment is not too obvious. The nut which controls the tightness is a thin one and is just under the top yoke

3 Some steering head nuts require a special type of C-spanner. In some ways this nut is easier to work

1 The swing arm's grease nipple (bronze bus - arc needle roller types only) has to be approac^ec from below

2 Steering head bearing adjustment is not too obvious. The nut which controls the tightness is a thin one and is just under the top yoke

3 Some steering head nuts require a special type of C-spanner. In some ways this nut is easier to work

Check the security of the swingarm. Try to move it from side to side. Any play should be taken up either by replacing the bushes, or placing shims between the swingarm and frame. Don't just tighten the pivot pin — eventually it may crack the engine mounting brackets.

★ Remove all the spark plugs and check what they look like. If they are either sooty or white, you may be in trouble somewhere. Seek exper. ahvice. but don't run your machine further until diagnosis has taken place. If they are just rigt m fact a warm, medium brown, check the gap and put them back. Re-gap if necessary but ckn * zamage the porcelain whilst bending the outer earthing electrode. Smear a little graphitei urease onto the plug threads. Check your plug caps at the same time. Replace any parts which lot* shabby Always fit the correct grade of plug — many, many machines have holed pistons because r :: rrect fitment.

* Give the machine the once-over as ir- z suggested but take a careful look at the wheels, with the machine on its centre-stand. On s: . - » -eels check for broken spokes and then check the ring of the spokes by running a pencii aror_mr :±ae wheel, "pinging the spokes. If the note ringing from each spoke changes, check that spo*e 'J j;e spoke is loose have an expert check the wheel. On cast wheels check for cracks and den:«

Check all wheel bearings for smoodaaiadpiay when rocking the wheel by grasping it at the rim. Any noticeable spindle axis play w_ rwpnre further investigation.

Have someone sit on the rear of the wo. - mm- or lift the engine of the machine with a scissor jack under the crankcase so that the frocr »-ee jits just clear of the ground Check the steering head bearings for smoothness and play townv- _^at the handlebars should swing from lock to lock very easily with no stiffness. At the «-n»» ~_z:e "ere should be no shakiness and looseness. If there is looseness then try to tighten the fee-ami riead bearings just enough to get rid of the looseness without stiffening up the steen2£ I . if the steering is very stiff, loosen it. To the right of the centre steering head, on the :: - z Je clamp) there is an alien screw which locks the centre bolt. Loosen that and then ah _s~ "_i.e »¿rcis with the nut under the top fork yoke using a very thin spanner or C spanner as apprcpr-e e ? e" ¿rten the centre and its alien screw when the job is done.

Contact breaker pc " ser ig - the screwdriver blade is on one of the re" ^ scews which fix the back

The Twin's contact breaker points once the cover has been removed See the line-drawing close by

Fix a lead light as shown for correct ignition timing 1 Eccentric screw, 2 moving plate screw, arrows -(Twin) contact breaker points fixing screws (Twin)
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