Three monthly or every 3000 miles

Undertake the previous service jobs plus the ones given next.

★ The Twins use standard contact points and have adjustable coil ignition. A maintenance check is due at this service time. The Triples have electronic ignition which requries no maintenance.

Check and adjust the contact breaker gaps, on the Twins (not electronic ignition SFC). Remove the ignition points cover on the lefthand side of the engine. Remove the dynamo belt cover on the opposite side of the engine. Rotate the crankshaft until one set of points is fully open. The crank can be rotated with a socket on the pulley nut or by gripping the dynamo drive belt and carefully 'pulling' the engine round by the friction on the belt. Inspect the points for pitting.

Use a suitable metric feeler blade to check the gap which should be 0.4mm. Adjust as necessary by loosening the base plate screw just a little and then push or pull it with a screwdriver blade until the gap is correct. Then tighten the screw. The feeler blade should be a tight but sliding fit. Turn the crankshaft until the maximum gap is again found but on the other contact breaker. Repeat the operation for that set. Put a drop of light oil on the felt pad which lubricates the spindle.

Always adjust the contact breaker gaps before checking the ignition timing. To check the ignition timing, leave off the two engine side covers just removed for contact breaker gap adjustment. Remove both spark plugs. Connect a 12 volt pilot lamp easy to make up), with long leads, to the right-hand contact breaker on the rear part of the contact place, on its 'spring' (that will be obvious when looking at it) and an earth on the frame wrap a bare wire around a screw replaced in the cover housing screw hole). Go to the other side of the bike and make sure that you can see the pilot light easily. Turn on the ignition key and rotate the crankshaft clockwise. The pilot light should light up when the PM mark on the crankshaft pulley aliens with the mark on the crankcase. If the lamp lights up before the PM mark aligns with the crankcase mark, the ignition is too far advanced, if afterwards, it's too retarded. (PM = TDC

The Twin's contact breaker points once the cover has been removed See the line-drawing close by

Contact breaker pc " ser ig - the screwdriver blade is on one of the re" ^ scews which fix the back

To adjust the timing for the right-hand contact breaker set undo the three outer screws on the rear part of the contact plate (each screw has a long slot in the plate behind it) but only slightly. Now shift the plate either clockwise (to retard the ignition) or anti-clockwise (to advance it) very gently. Lock the contact plate with one screw and test the point at which the lamp lights until the setting is right. It pays to switch off the ignition whilst you are fiddling about, but remember to switch it on again when you want to test! Each time you turn the crankshaft anti-clockwise to try the setting again, turn it more than a few degrees so that a proper, fresh check can be made. Turn the crank clockwise very slowly for accuracy's sake. Once the right-hand side is accurately set, tighten the three contact plate screws but without too much force. Turn the engine twice and check once more.

To check the other contact breaker side, keep the pilot lamp's earth connected but put the positive side onto the left hand 'spring' o: ze left-hand contact breaker. Turn the crankshaft close to one full clockwise turn. As the PM mar*, comes close to the mark on the crankcase again, turn on the ignition and watch for the point at win m he lamp lights. Repeat the process for the left-hand side but make your adjustment by looseimm ne two screws which hold the front part of the contact breaker plate. Push or pull that plate with the much smaller eccentric screw close to the lower of the two plate fixing screws. Turn the eirnt *wice and check once more.

Once all is correct, carefully tighten er.thing which has been loosened, replace the two side covers and the spark plugs. Test the engine

If you are using a battery not connect»:: to the wiring system, all adjustments are done in the same way although the lamp will go out rather than light up). (There is a Laverda special tool available which will help you to read off me FVi mark with that of the crankcase. It bridges the excess distance between the two. but s eertaily not necessary to complete an accurate adjustment).

★ The primary chain is adjustable froest m tne engine on the primary side. The adjuster is covered by a large cap nut. Remove tins acc tne spacing washers. Warm the engine and then have it ticking over. Undo the lock nut. have sememe rev tne engine to between 2000 and 3000 rev min then screw up the adjuster screw unm mere » - mecium-pitch whine from the primary chain, — it's quite audible. Loosen the adjuster m:_ me » me goes away again. Go gently and it is possible to make a fine adjustment by ear. Lotj. _t me e: _s:er. replace enough washers (take them away as adjustment is taken up) and then pic: ¡del me tap nut again.

★ Check all nuts and bolts over the «c: e rt::orcycle. If a torque wrench is available use it where you can. It is essential that the -=~ -"ir-** gearbox bolts are tightened to the right torque otherwise excessive vibration will taie cm:e m the short term and bolt hole ovality in the long term. Also check the fit and tightness e :: me exhaust system — leaks cause poor running and vibration.

Tappet clearance adjustment on the Twin is not q. re as simple as this drawing suggests

Although this engine is on the bench it shows the primary chain adjuster well. This is a Triple engine but it makes no difference

Tappet clearance adjustment on the Twin is not q. re as simple as this drawing suggests

Although this engine is on the bench it shows the primary chain adjuster well. This is a Triple engine but it makes no difference

0 0

Post a comment