Wheels tyres9 drive and brakes

Wheel removal 145

Front wheel removal — drum brake 145

Front wheel removal — disc brake(s) 147

Rear wheel removal — drum brake 147

Rear wheel removal — disc brake 147

Replacement of front and rear wheels 147

Wheel care 149

Wheel alignment, balancing and trueing 149

Tyres 149

Chain 151

Sprockets 152

Cush drive 152

Factory chaincase and chainguard 152

Wheel bearings 152

Drum brake adjustment — front 153

Drum brake adjustment — rear 154

Front brake cable replacement 154

Rear brake cable replacement 155

Rear drum brake pedal 155

Drum brake inspection — shoe and moving part replacement 155

Disc brake pad replacement 156

Caliper removal and overhaul 156

Brake pipes and fittings 157

Front disc brake master cylinder 157

Rear disc brake master cylinder 158

Rear disc brake pedal 159

Discs 160

Disc brake hydraulic system bleeding 160

Wheel removal

Removing either a front or rear wheel by the side of the road is a hard task — in spite of what you are told, none of the machines will easily balance on the centre stand, front and rear. All the advice given here suggests ideal working conditions. Roadside repairers must make do, as best they can, using this advice, should the\ nave a puncture.

Front wheel removal — drum brake

Place the machine on its centre stand leaving as much clear working area around the machine as possible. If you can place the stand on a piece of wood so that the whole of the machine is raised as far, as is safe, from the ground, do so. Now loosen the front axle spindle nut. The bike is balanced over the centre stand so that it rests on the centre stand and rear wheel once the front wheel is removed. To be safe, jack up the front of the machine with a scissor jack under the crankcase.

Loosen all the front brake adjustment at the handlebar lever and then at the drum itself. Remove the brake cable from the drum. The Grimeca uses a split and cotter pin system, whilst the Laverda brake uses a threaded adjuster. Do not touch the spacer rod between the two shoes shown externally on the brake plate. Now undo and remove the speedometer cable from its drive gearbox at the front wheel and then remove the torque arm from the brake plate. There have been a variety of fittings. Undo and remove both fork-end clamp bolts, remove the wheel spindle nut and carefully drive out the front wheel spindle. It's best if the front wheel is supported from below at this point.

Carefully wiggle the front wheel out and retain any spacers or washers which may come away.

Front wheel removal — disc brake(s)

Proceed as for the drum brake explanation but ignore the references to brake cables and torque arm. Instead loosen the caliper fitting bolts, slide the caliper(s) off the disc(s) and hang each one carefully from the handlebars with an elastistrap. Do not stretch the hydraulic pipe. It is not necessary to remove the hydraulic pipe from its guide at the fork leg. Now follow the drum brake sequence.

Rear wheel removal — drum brake

Put the bike on its centre stand, as high as possible from the ground. Parking the machine over a curb would help. Remove the nearside silencer from the machine. If hot, allow it to cool first. Disconnect the rear brake cable from the drum after letting out all its adjustment, at both ends (some use split and cotter pins, others adjusters). Undo the torque arm from the brake plate (split pin) pull it away to clear its stud thread and then gently push it downwards as close to the ground as is possible. Don't remove the torque arm from the swing arm.

Undo the rear wheel spindle nut and loosen both chain adjusters taking care to note their positions.

Machines with Grimeca hubs

Split the rear chain. Hold the chain ends with two pieces of wire. Remove the spindle nut from the chain side and then carefully drive the spindle through the rear wheel and swing arm with a suitable drift. The rear wheel should now drop down. Catch any spacers. Wiggle the wheel out complete with rear drive sprocket.

Machines with Laverda hubs

Drive the spindle through from the offside of the machine, as just described for earlier machines and catch any spacers. The wheel should still be hanging on the cush drive, on the chain side, once the spindle is out.

Pull the wheel with its brake plate off the cush drive and roll it down and out from under the mudguard. It's a tight fit and care will be needed. Depending on the space available, and how high the machine is, it may be necessary to slightly lift the rear of the machine. Use help for this.

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