Assembly

ASSEMBLING SLIDER

Clean chips from inside of slider by washing thoroughly in solvent. Install new seal (if required) with seal lip facing inward, and top of seal flush with top of slider. Install boot (5A, Figure 2-31).

ASSEMBLING FRONT FORK SHOCK ABSORBER (Figure 2-34 or 2-35)

Assemble parts into shock absorber tube in reverse order of disassembly using Tru-arc retaining ring pliers to install rings in grooves. Be sure upper valve body (4) is installed with outer lip fitting over spring (4A).

ASSEMBLING FRONT FORK (Figure 2-31)

Assemble slider (10) on fork tube and shock absorber assembly (8) and check for free movement of slider on fork tube. Assemble bolt and washer (12) and new O-ring (13). Insert screwdriver or rod into upper end of fork tube to hold slotted endoftube (8)whiletightening boltand washer(12). Insert spring into fork side and pour specified amount of fork oil into each fork side. Using Wrench, Part No. 94694-52, install spring retainer (7) into fork tube. The top of the retainer should measure exactly 3/4 in. down from top of fork tube.

Install assembled fork side (6) into mounting brackets. Securely tighten fork tube cap (1) before tightening the fork tube pinch bolt. Secure fork boot in lip of retainer (15) (if used). Install front fender and headlamp housing. Install front wheel and brake assembly as described in "REMOVING AND INSTALLING FRONT WHEEL," Section 2.

INSTALLING STEM AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY, FORK SIDES AND ADJUSTING STEERING BEARINGS (Figures 2-31)

Assembly of the fork stem and bracket assembly is essentially the reverse order of disassembly. Assemble the head cups (28 or 28A), bearings (27 or 27A) and bearing cones (25 and 26 or 25A). Apply a heavy coating of grease to the bearings when positioned in head cups. Install the fork stem (24) and tighten fork stem sleeve (23) on fork stem until all appreciable play is taken up and bearing action is smooth and free. Assemble spacer (22), handlebar assembly and upper fork bracket (21).

Install fork sides (6) after assembly into mounting brackets. Securely tighten fork tube cap (1) before tightening fork tube pinch bolts to 35 ft-lbs. Secure fork boot in lip of retainer (15) (if used). Install front fender. Install front wheel and brake assembly as described in "REMOVING AND INSTALLING FRONT WHEEL," Section 2.

With fork sides, wheel and fender reassembled, fork should have smooth free movement to either side If there is any binding, slightly back off the fork stem sleeve (23) until it is correctly adjusted. Be sure not to back it off too much - as there should be no appreciable shake or sideways movement of the front fork. Install and securely tighten the sleeve end nut (19) and the upper bracket pinch bolt stem (20). Torque bolt (20) to 20-25 ft-lbs.

Figure 2-48. Reaming Fork Slider Bushing

REAR SHOCK ABSORBER

DISASSEMBLING

Raise rear end of motorcycle with stand or suitable blocking underneath frame.

NOTE

If blocking is not available work on only one shock absorber at a time, the other shock absorber will hold the rear fork and frame in place.

(Figure 2-49): Remove top and bottom mounting stud nut (1), washer (2), stud cover (3), andwasher(4). Slipshock absorber assembly off upper and lower studs. Push rubber bushings (5) from shock absorber mounting eyes. Place shock absorber in Rear Shock Absorber Tool, Part No. 97010-52A (see Figure 2-50) with split key (6) up. Compress absorber spring enough to remove each half of split key (6) from flange on shock eye. Release spring compression and remove absorber assembly from tool. Remaining items can be removed in order shown in Figure 2-49.

INSPECTING

Clean and inspect all parts for wear and damage, paying particular attention to the condition of the stud rubbers, the ride control adjustment cams, dirt seal, and spring. Examine absorber unit for traces of fluid leaking, especially at upper end. Unit should compress slightly easier than it extends. If possible, compare action with unused unit. Shock absorber cannot be repaired. Faulty units must be replaced.

ASSEMBLING

Assembly of the rear shock absorber is essentially the reverse order of disassembly.

(Figure 2-49): Apply a thin coat of grease to all surfaces of both cams. Note that cams (13) are identical and be sure to position cam lobes correctly as shown in Figure 2-49 inset. Place assembly in compressor tool and compress spring enough to install key halves (6).

Release spring compression. Keys will lock into place in inside diameter of covers 7 or 8.

ADJUSTING SPRING

The rear shock absorber springs can be adjusted to three positions (five positions for 1978) for the weight the motorcycle is to carry. The average weight solo rider would use the extended spring position (off cam); when in low position (off cam), the cam lobes should be next to each other: that is, single lobes and double lobes matched. If necessary, rotate the cam to line them up properly. A heavy solo rider might require the position with springs slightly compressed (spring position second cam step).

To adjust the rear shock absorber springs, turn cushion spring adjusting cam to desired cam position with either Spanner Wrench, Part No. 94700-52B for 1974 and earlier or Spanner Wrench, Part No. 94820-75 for 1975 and later. Both cushion spring adjusting cams must be adjusted to , the same position. Always back off cam in opposite direction when releasing spring tension to intermediate or solo position.

1. Mounting stud nut (2)

3. Stud cover

5. Stud rubber bushing (2)

6. Split key

9. Washer (3, low road clearance),

(2, high road clearance) (1974 and earlier)

10. Spring (1974 and earlier)

11. Seal washer (low road clearance) (1974 and earlier)

12. Adjusting cup (1974 and earlier)

14. Shock absorber unit (1974 and earlier) 14A. Shock absorber unit (1975 and later)

15. Cam support (1973 and 1974)

Figure 2-49. Rear Shock Absorber -Exploded View

Figure 2-50. Compressing Shock Absorber

NOTE

If shock cam is turned too far so that it falls off top position it will not be matched correctly with the other cam. To correct this condition, continue 180° in same direction until it falls off again and then adjust to desired position.

IMPORTANT

Install each shock absorber on motorcycle with slot in cam support (15, Figure 2-49) facing toward motorcycle wheel.

REAR FORK

DISASSEMBLING (Figure 2-51)

Remove the rear wheel as described in "REMOVING AND INSTALLING REAR WHEEL." Free brake rod from operating lever and remove brake assembly from motorcycle. Remove exhaust pipe and muffler. Disconnect shock absorbers from rear fork.

See order of disassembly, Figure 2-51. Remove pivot bolt (1) and lockwasher (2) from rear fork (3). Rear fork can now be disassembled from frame. Remove the following parts: Bearing screw (4), bearing shakeproof washer (5), bearing lockwasher (6), bearing locknut - right (7) and bearing outer spacer (8). With a punch turn out bearing locknut -left (9) and remove pivot bolt nut (10). From inside of fork press or drive out bearing inner spacer (11) and bearing (12), by applying pressure against spacer (11). Press or drive out bearing shields (13) from fork inner side.

2-32

1. Pivot bolt

2. Bearing lockwasher

3. Rear fork

4. Bearing screw

5. Shakeproof washer

6. Lockwasher

7. Bearing locknut - right

8. Outer spacer

9. Bearing locknut - left

10. Pivot bolt nut

11. Bearing inner spacer (2)

13. Bearing shield (2)

Figure 2-51. Rear Fork - Exploded View

CLEANING AND INSPECTING

Before reassembling, clean and inspect all parts. Rough check the rear fork for correct alignment. Dimensions shown in Figure 2-52 will provide enough information to determine if fork is far enough out of alignment to require realigning or replacement. Straightening a badly bent rear fork requires special tools and fixtures for holding, bending and gauging.

Figure 2-52. Rear Fork Dimensions

Check the rear fork bearings. If the inner or outer bearing race is badly pitted, replace bearing assembly.

ASSEMBLING (Figure 2-51)

^—^Assembly is essentially the reverse order of disassembly. /" attention should also be given to the following instruc-'ons:

From outside of fork press or drive bearing shield (13) into position, flush with inner fork side. From outside of fork insert bearing spacer (11), shoulder facing in. Apply a heavy coating of grease to bearing (12).

NOTE

Pack the two rear fork pivot bearings with fresh grease at 10,000 mile intervals.

With wide side of bearing outer race facing out, tap bearing into fork until flush with inner fork side.

Insert bearing outer spacer (8), shoulder facing in. Assemble and tighten bearing locknut - right (7), and then back off one full turn. Insert pivot bolt nut (10). With a punch, tighten bearing locknut - left (9) until snug. Stake lock in three places. Position rear fork in place on motorcycle and at the same time position pivot bolt nut (10), shoulder in crankcase recess. With lockwasher (2) in place, coat pivot bolt (1) with grease. Insert in rear fork assembly and tighten securely.

Weigh the extreme rear end of fork by attaching spring scale and raising fork to horizontal position with centerline of frame. Take scale reading and tighten locknut - right (7) sufficient amount to provide from one to two pounds drag on the bearing. For example, if rear end of fork weighs three and one-half pounds with bearings free, bearings should be adjusted tight enough to increase weight of fork to four and one-half or five and one-half pounds as fork is lifted to horizontal position. Assemble screw (4), washer (5), and lockwasher (6).

Install shock absorbers, exhaust pipe and muffler. Install brake assembly and rear wheel. Insert brake rod in operating lever and adust brake as described in "ADJUSTING REAR WHEEL BRAKE."

BRAKES

GENERAL

The front wheel brake is operated by a hand lever on the right handlebar side, and the rear wheel brake is operated by a foot pedal. To keep mechanical brakes in proper operating condition, it is essential to check adjustment of brakes at regular service intervals of 5000 miles, or sooner, depending on wear of brake linings and drums. See adjustment of brakes and centering brake shoes. If brakes do not operate satisfactorily after adjustment of linkage and recentering brake shoes in drums, disassemble and service brakes and connecting linkage. Hydraulic disc brake (1973 and later) is self-adjusting. Brake fluid level in master cylinder should be checked every 1000 miles.

On 1974 and later models rear brake lining can be inspected through view ports (6, Figure 2-54) to determine amount of lining wear.

1. Adjusting sleeve locknut

2. Front brake adjusting sleeve

3. Adjusting sleeve nut

4. Brake shoe pivot stud

5. Front wheel axle nut

6. Brake cable

7. Brake cable clevis clamp nut

8. Brake cable clevis clamp

9. Brake cable support tube 10. Brake lever

Figure 2-53. Front Brake (1972 and Earlier)

DRUM BRAKES

ADJUSTING FRONT BRAKE (Figure 2-53)

When the front wheel brake is properly adjusted, the hand lever will move freely about one-quarter of its full movement before the brake starts to take effect. If adjusted tighter the brake may drag. To adjust brake, loosen locknut (1) on adjusting sleeve (2) and turn sleeve nut (3) in toward the cable support tube to decrease the free movement of hand lever and tighten the brake. Turn sleeve nut (3) away from the cable support tube to increase the free movement of hand lever and loosen the brake. When free movement of the hand lever is about one-quarter of its full movement, tighten locknut (1) against adjusting sleeve nut (3). Rotate the wheel to make sure brake is not too tight and dragging. If brake should drag with correct free movement in hand lever, recenter brake shoes in brake drum as follows:

Loosen, but do not remove, front brake shoe pivot stud (4) and axle nut (5). Spin front wheel. While wheel is turning apply brake and tighten pivot stud (4) and then axle nut (5). Recheck brake for correct adjustment as described above.

ADJUSTING REAR BRAKE (Figure 2-54)

To adjust rear wheel brake turn adjusting nut(1)tochange the effective length of the brake rod(2)(1972 andearlier), or cable (1973 and later). The adjusting nut has a notch which fits against the clevis pin in the operating lever (3). Thus, it is locked in place on the rod, but may be turned down or backed off the rod by half turns as required. Set the adjusting nut so that the brake begins to take effect when the foot lever is pushed downward about 1-1/4 in.

1. Brake rod adjusting nut

2. Brake rod

3. Operating lever

4. Brake shoe pivot stud nut 4A. Brake shoe anchor bolt

5. Rear wheel axle nut

6. Brake lining view port

Figure 2-54. Rear Brake (1972 and Earlier)

Turn the nut onto the rod to tighten the brake; back it off to loosen the brake. Turn the wheel to be sure the brake is not too tight and dragging. If brake should drag with correct free movement in foot pedal, recenter brake shoes in brake drum as follows:

Loosen but do not remove rear brake pivot stud nut (4) or bolt (4A) and axle nut (5). Spin rear wheel. While wheel is turning apply brake and tighten pivot stud nut (4) or bolt (4A) and then the axle nut (5). Recheck brake for correct adjustment, as previously described.

REPLACING FRONT BRAKE CABLE (Figure 2-53)

If the front wheel brake cable (6) is not free in its housing, is frayed or broken, replace cable. Remove clevis clamp nut (7) and clamp (8). Free cable from clevis and pull from upper end of coil. Install new cable from upper end of housing as positioned on motorcycle, applying a light coat of grease as it is inserted into coil. When reassembling cable ferrule in hand lever anchor pin with side slot, be sure slot is toward inside as shown. Earlier type pin with slotted end should have open end facing downward.

To correctly adjust brake cable turn adjusting sleeve lock-nut (1) and adjusting sleeve nut (3) to the top of brake adjusting sleeve (2). Make sure brake cable end is correctly positioned in brake lever slot, control coil ferrule is correctly positioned in hand lever bracket slot, and the brake cable support tube (9) is positioned in the fork slider bracket. Take all slack out of brake cable by pulling at the lower end of cable. With front brake lever (10) in lowest position (brake released), loop cable (6) around clevis and secure in place with clevis clamp (8) and nut (7). Adjust brake as described in "ADJUSTING FRONT WHEEL BRAKE."

DISASSEMBLING FRONT BRAKE (1972 AND EARLIER) (Figure 2-55)

Remove front wheel and brake assembly from motorcycle as described in "REMOVING AND INSTALLING FRONT WHEEL." Remove operating shaft nut (2) and operating lever (3). Lightly tap operating shaft (4) to remove brake shoes (8), springs (9), operating shaft (4), washer (5) and pivot stud (6) as a unit from brake side plate (7). Remove shoes from operating shaft (4) and pivot stud (6).

DISASSEMBLING REAR BRAKE (Figure 2-56)

Remove rear wheel from motorcycle as described in "REMOVING AND INSTALLING REAR WHEEL." Section 2. Remove rear brake rod adjusting nut (1) and free brake rod (2) from operating lever (3). Remove brake assembly from motorcycle. Remove operating shaft nut and washer (4), operating lever (3), pivot stud nut and lockwasher (5) or anchor bolt and washer (5A) and locating block (6) or spacer (6A). Lightly tap operating shaft (7) to remove brake shoes (8), springs (9), pivot stud (10 or 10A), operating shaft (7) and washer (11) as a unit from brake side plate (1 2). Remove shoes from operating shaft (7) and pivot stud (10).

INSPECTING AND REPAIRING BRAKES (Figures 2-55 and 2-56)

Clean and inspect brake shoes and linings (8) for wear, loose rivets, glazing, or imbedded particles. Brake shoes that are badly worn, cracked or damaged must be replaced. Linings (10 and 13) that are worn down to rivet heads, hard or glazed, impregnated with grease, cracked or damaged, must be replaced. Linings that are only slightly glazed and in apparent good condition may be reused after being roughened with a medium grade of sandpaper. Also, be sure to roughen braking surface of the brake drum.

If replacement of brake linings is necessary, new linings can be riveted to the old shoes, or, if riveting facilities are not available, brake shoes and linings can be renewed To reline old shoes remove and discard old rivets and linings. Position new lining on brake shoe and head rivets, working from one end to the other to achieve a tight fit and avoid buckling. If a riveting machine is not available, set rivets with hand tools. After riveting linings to the brake shoes, bevel each end of brake lining as shown in Figure 2-57

1. Pivot stud screw and washer

2. Operating shaft nut

3. Operating lever

4. Operating shaft

5. Operating shaft washer

6. Shoe pivot stud

7. Brake side plate

8. Brake shoe and lining (2)

Figure 2-55. Front Brake (1972 and Earlier) - Exploded View

1. Brake rod adjusting nut

2. Brake rod

3. Brake operating lever

4. Operating shaft nut and lockwasher

Figure 2-56. Rear Brake - Exploded View

1. Brake rod adjusting nut

2. Brake rod

3. Brake operating lever

4. Operating shaft nut and lockwasher

5. Pivot stud nut and lock-

washer (1972 and earlier) 5A. Anchor bolt and washer (1973)

6. Locating block (1972 and earlier)

6A. Spacer (1973)

7. Operating shaft

10. Pivot stud (1972 and earlier)

10A. Pivot stud (1973)

11. Operating shaft washer

12. Brake side plate

13. Brake lining (2)

14. Cross shaft (1974 and earlier)

15. Rod clevis cotter pin and washer (1974 and earlier)

16. Rod clevis pin (1974 and earlier)

17. Foot lever bolt and nut (1974 and earlier)

18. Foot lever (1974 and earlier)

19. Lever torsion spring (1974 and earlier)

20. Frame brake shaft tube bushing (2) (1974 and earlier)

21. Cross shaft adjusting screw and nut (1974 and earlier)

Clean all dirt from brake drums (not shown), and examine for scoring, grooving, or excessive wear. Inspect brake Operating shaft (4 and 7), pivot stud (6 and 10 or 1 OA), and i»rake side plate (7 and 12) for excessive wear of shaft bearing surfaces. Recommended repair procedure is replacement of badly worn or damaged parts.

ASSEMBLING FRONT BRAKE (1972 AND EARLIER) (Figure 2-55)

Assembly is essentially the reverse order of disassembly. Assemble brake shoes (8) on operating shaft (4) and pivot stud (6) with one spring (9). Secure spring in groove that is nearest brake side plate. Position washer (5). Assemble unit to brake side plate (7). Make sure flat side of pivot stud (6) registers in recess of brake side plate. Install operating lever (3) and nut (2). Attach second spring in place with pliers. Install front wheel and brake assembly as described in "REMOVING AND INSTALLING FRONT WHEEL," Section 2. Adjust brakes and center brake shoes as described in "ADJUSTING FRONT WHEEL BRAKE."

ASSEMBLING REAR BRAKE (Figure 2-56)

Assembly is essentially the reverse order of disassembly. Assemble brake shoes (8) on operating shaft (7) and pivot stud (10 or 10A) with one spring (9). Secure spring in groove nearest brake side plate. Position washer (11) on shaft (7). Assemble unit on brake side plate (12). Install locating block (6) on spacer (6A), nut and lockwasher (5) or anchor bolt and washer (5A), operating lever (3) and nut and lockwasher (4). Attach second spring in place with pliers. Position brake assembly in rear wheel brake drum and install wheel assembly in frame as described in "REMOVING AND INSTALLING REAR WHEEL." Insert brake rod (2) through lever (3). Assemble adjusting nut (1) loosely on rod (2). Adjust brakes and center brake shoes as described in "ADJUSTING REAR WHEEL BRAKE."

DISASSEMBLING AND ASSEMBLING REAR BRAKE CROSS SHAFT (1974 & EARLIER) (Figure 2-56)

If it is necessary to remove the brake cross shaft (14) from the motorcycle, proceed as follows:

Disconnect rear chain and remove exhaust pipe and muffler from motorcycle. Free brake rod (2) clevis from cross shaft (14) lever arm, by removing washer and cotter pin (15) and clevis pin (16). Discard pin (15). Loosen pinch bolt (17), slip foot lever (18) and spring (19) from shaft (14). Remove shaft (14) from frame tube.

Examine cross shaft (14) and lever (18) splines for wear and damage. If lever slips on shaft splines when pinch bolt (17) is tight, renew worn parts. Fit clevis pin (16) in rod (2) clevis, and check for worn condition. Replace clevis pin (16) if badly worn.

Check cross shaft (14) bearing surface and compare with shaft non-bearing surface. If bearing surface is not worn, but has excessive play in frame tube, replace bronze bushings (20). Thread tap (3/4-16 thd) into bushing and, from opposite side, drift bushing and tap from frame tube. Press new bushings (20) in place and install cross shafl (14). Rotate shaft to make sure it is free in bushings. If high spots develop when bushings are installed, ream to size.

Figure 2-57. Beveling Brake Lining back of center of the rear fork pivot bolt (3). Under nc conditions should the top front of the cross shaft arm (2) be closer than 1-1/2 in. to the rear of the relieved portion ol the transmission sprocket cover (4). Assemble brake pedal on cross shaft. If pedal does not position correctly (almost touching footrest), readjust cross shaft adjusting screw (1 ] so that cross shaft splines and brake pedal are correctly positioned. However, adjustment should be made so thai cross shaft arm (2) is always moved to the rear, never closer to the transmission sprocket cover (4). After final adjustment tighten cross shaft bolt locknut (5).

LUBRICATING

Before operating motorcycle, lubricate brake system as indicated under "REGULAR SERVICE INTERVALS," Section 1.

Figure 2-57. Beveling Brake Lining

With cross shaft (14) correctly positioned in frame tube, insert shaft arm in brake rod clevis and install pin (16). Insert washer and new cotter pin (15) in pin (16). Connect chain and install exhaust system.

See Figure 2-58, and proceed as follows: Adjust cross shaft adjusting screw (1) so that with screw against its stop on frame, the top of the cross shaft arm (2) is slightly

REAR BRAKE FOOT PEDAL MECHANISM (1975 AND 1976)

The rear brake foot mechanism is located on the right side of the motorcycle. It is mounted, along with the right foot peg, on a bracket which attaches directly to the frame. To remove the bracket, remove the front muffler, remove the attaching pinch screw and pull off the bracket. Figure 2-59 shows the bracket removed, with foot peg and brake parts attached. Disassemble as follows:

1. Adjusting Screw

2. Brake cross shaft arm

3. Rear fork pivot bolt

4. Transmission sprocket cover

5. Adjusting screw locknut

Figure 2-58. Rear Brake Cross Shaft Adjustment - 1974 and Earlier

Detach brake cable (1) at rear brake operating lever and remove from slot in clevis pin (5). Remove switch (3) from its mounting bracket by removing attaching hardware. Detach spring (4) at both ends and pull out clevis pin (5). Remove foot pedal (6) by removing screw (7). Remove foot peg (8) by removing attaching hardware

Clean all parts and inspect for wear or damage. Assemble in reverse order of disassembly. When fully assembled, adjust adjusting screw (10) to remove excessive play between brake cable and foot pedal. Tighten locking nut on screw after adjustments are completed. Inject a small amount of grease in fitting (11) using a hand grease gun

REAR BRAKE FOOT PEDAL (1977 AND LATER)

The rear brake foot pedal and associated parts are located on the right side of the motorcycle.

Adjustment

The position of brake pedal can be changed to suit rider as follows. Refer to Figure 2-60.

Turn stop screw (5) in or out of bracket (1) to set 1/4 in. dimension shown in figure. Place brake pedal in position on splines of shaft (2) as desired. Note that the 1 /4 in. dimension is easily set by backing screw (5) all the way down into bracket (1) then turning it back out six turns.

1. Brake cable

2. Cable assembly

3. Switch

4. Spring

5. Clevis pin

6. Brake pedal

7. Screw

8. Foot peg

9. Screw

10. Adjusting screw

11. Grease fitting

Figure 2-59. Rear Brake Foot

Make minor changes by readjusting stop screw (5). However, do not turn it more than three turns in either direction. A dimension close to 1 /4 in. must be maintained for brake to work properly. Three turns of screw is about the same as changing pedal position one spline. So, if pedal is still not as desired, try repositioning on shaft splines rather than turning screw more than three turns.

After a new brake pedal position has been chosen, the position of stop light switch must be checked and repositioned as required. Loosen hardware securing switch and position along slot shown so switch plunger does not bottom out when pedal is fully released. Retighten switch mounting hardware.

Mechanism (1975 and 1976)

2-39

2-39

Moldes Para Hacer Munecos Navidenos
Figure 2-60. Rear Brake Foot Pedal (1977 and Later)
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