Engine

STARTS HARD

1. Spark plugs in bad condition, partially fouled or have improper gap.

2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and "leaking."

3. Circuit breaker points out of adjustment or in poor condition.

4. Battery nearly discharged.

5. Loose wire connection at one of battery terminals, or at coil or circuit breaker.

6. Carburetor fuel mixture too rich or too lean.

7. Defective ignition coil.

8. Defective condenser.

9. Engine and transmission oil too heavy. (Winter operation.)

10. Engine ignition spark not timed properly.

11. Circuit breaker cam sticking in advance position.

STARTS BUT RUNS IRREGULARLY OR MISSES '. Spark plugs in bad condition, or partially fouled. Spark plug cables in bad condition and "leaking."

3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.

4. Circuit breaker points out of adjustment or in need of cleaning.

5. Condenser connections loose.

6. Defective ignition coil.

7. Defective condenser.

8. Battery nearly discharged.

9. Loose wire connection at one of battery terminals, or at coil or circuit breaker.

10. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wiring insulation.

11. Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor.

12. Gasoline tank cap vent plugged or carburetor vent line closed off restricting fuel flow.

13. Carburetor fuel mixture too rich or too lean.

14. Weak or broken valve springs.

CRANKING MOTOR DOES NOT OPERATE OR DOES NOT TURN ENGINE OVER

1. Ignition switch or handlebar stop switch is not on.

2. Discharged battery, or loose or corroded connections.

3. Starter control circuit or solenoid defective.

4. Clutch slipping.

5. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging.

ENGINE TURNS OVER BUT DOES NOT START

1. Gasoline tank empty.

2. Gasoline valve shut off.

3. Gasoline line clogged.

4. Discharged battery or loose or broken battery terminal connection. Check by turning light switch "ON."

5. Fouled spark plugs.

6. Spark plug cables in bad condition and "leaking."

7. Badly oxidized ignition circuit breaker points.

8. Circuit breaker and/or ignition timing points badly out of adjustment.

9. Loose wire connection at one of battery terminals, or at coil or circuit breaker.

10. Clutch slipping and starter not turning engine over.

11. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of over-choking.

12. Engine and transmission oil too heavy (winter operation).

A SPARK PLUG FOULS REPEATEDLY

1. Too cold a plug for the kind of service.

2. Piston rings badly worn or in bad condition.

PRE-IGNITION

1. Excessive carbon deposit on piston head or in combustion chamber.

2. Too hot a spark plug for the kind of service or for type of engine.

3. Defective spark plugs.

4. Ignition timing too advanced.

OVERHEATING

1. Insufficient oil supply, or oil not circulating.

2. Carburetor fuel mixture too lean.

3. Ignition timing too late.

DETONATION

1. Unsuitable fuel (octane rating too low).

2. Heavy deposit of carbon on piston head and in combustion chamber.

3. Defective spark plug or wrong heat range.

4. Ignition timing too early.

EXCESSIVE VIBRATION

1. Cylinder head bracket loose or broken.

2. Engine mounting bolts loose.

3. Broken frame.

4. Tires or wheels defective.

DIY Battery Repair

DIY Battery Repair

You can now recondition your old batteries at home and bring them back to 100 percent of their working condition. This guide will enable you to revive All NiCd batteries regardless of brand and battery volt. It will give you the required information on how to re-energize and revive your NiCd batteries through the RVD process, charging method and charging guidelines.

Get My Free Ebook


Post a comment