Disassembling Clutch

Remove front chain cover and clutch cover as described under "Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension."

See Fig. 4B-8 and proceed as follows. Remove the three 7/16 in. hex-head nuts (5), and three 1/2 in. hex-head nuts (6). Remove spring-tension adjusting plate (7), springs (8), spring cups (9), releasing disc (10), seven clutch friction-drive plates (11), seven clutch steel-driven plates (12) and backing plate (13). All plates may be easily removed by tipping engine, or removed individually, using a piece of wire with a hook formed on one end.

See Fig. 4B-9. Remove front chain adjuster brace and three front chain adjuster cap screws (1). This will leave the chain adjuster (2) loose behind the front chain. Install Sprocket Locking Link Tool (3), Part No. 97200-55, between engine sprocket teeth and clutch sprocket teeth to prevent clutch and compensating sprocket, from turning.

Insert Clutch Lock Plate (4), Part No. 97175-55, between clutch hub (5) and sprocket (6) as shown in Fig. 4B-9. Bend ears of lock washer (15, Fig. 4B-8) away from hub nut and remove release rod - left (9, Fig. 4B-6). Remove clutch hub nut (14 or 14A, Fig. 4B-8) using Wrench, Part No. 94647-52, (7, Fig. 4B-9).

Pry hub nut lock washer from hub and discard. Pry oil seal (27, Fig. 4B-8) from clutch gear end with screw driver or release rod end that has been wiped dry. Install clutch Hub Puller (1), Part No. 9596052, and remove clutch hub (16) from splines of clutch gear as shown in Fig. 4B-10. Remove O-ring (18) from groove in clutch gear (30) (1967 XLH only).

Using Compensating Sprocket Shaft Wrench (2), Part No. 94557-55, remove shaft nut as shown in Fig. 4B-10,

Figure 4B-9. Removing and Installing Clutch Hub Nut luL

1. Front chain adjuster brace and cap screws

2. Front chain adjuster

3. Sprocket locking link tool

4. Clutch lock plate

5. Clutch hub

6. Clutch shell

7. Clutch hub nut wrench

8. Front chain

9. Compensating sprocket

1. Clutch hub puller

2. Compensating sprocket shaft wrench

Figure 4B-10. Removing Clutch Hub. Removing and Installing Compensating Sprocket and in one move, free clutch shell (6), front chain (8) and engine sprocket (9) as shown in Fig. 4B-9. Remove clutch hub spacer (20 or 20A).

Earlier clutch gears have a rubber O" ring (28) and extension (29). Remove extension from clutch gear end by applying pressure against shoulder of extension inside gear shaft, or by tapping with a rawhide mallet. To remove rubber "O" ring, simply pry ring from groove of gear extension.

INSPECTING AND REPAIRING CLUTCH (Fig. 4B-8)

Carefully examine clutch cover (3) sealing surface for scratches, distortion or any damage that might result in oil leakage to clutch. Discard gasket (4) and replace with a new one when reassembling clutch.

Inspect clutch springs (8) for damage or collapsed condition. Spring damage usually results from excessive heat. Free length of a new spring is approximately 1-5/8 in. Any that check below this limit should be replaced.

Examine the clutch release disc (10), for excessive wear, grooving or scoring on running surface. Replace if necessary.

Pay particular attention to the seven clutch-friction drive plates (11). Plates that are badly worn, grooved, scored or oil-soaked, should be replaced. Plates in relatively good condition, can be cleaned and sanded down with a medium-grade sandpaper and reused. Do not re-use plates that have been saturated with oil.

Examine the seven clutch driven plates (12) for excessive wear and damage. Plates that are badly worn, grooved, warped, burned or scored should be replaced. Plates that have turned blue from heat only, and are smooth and generally in good condition, can be used again after being thoroughly cleaned.

When reassembling, always replace lock washer (15) to insure an oil-tight seal between clutch hub and end of clutch gear.

Inspect clutch hub spacer (20 or 20A) for appreciable shake or play in needle bearings (21 or 21 A). Check for wear in bearing path of inner race and examine needle roller bearings. If bearings are worn, scored or damaged, replacement of part is necessary. Spacer is a slip-fit. in clutch shell. To replace bearings, see "Replacing Clutch Shell Needle Bearing and Starter Clutch."

Oil seal (17 or 17A) is a press fit and can be pryed from clutch sprocket. Be very careful not to damage seal during removal operation. Expand rubber exterior of seal and carefully check for hair-line cracks in seal surface. If any wear or damage is evident, replace seal to insure an oil-tight closure between clutch sprocket and clutch hub.

Inspect clutch shell (19 or 19A) for badly worn or loose keys, loose rivets, worn sprocket teeth, damaged ring gear teeth marred or damaged cover sealing surface. If noticeably damaged, replacement clutch shell is recommended. However, if a rivet is loose with no other apparent damage, a new rivet can be installed. On starter clutch side, set rivets until flush to .010 in. (maximum) above face of starter clutch. Rivets securing keys, must be headed with a .080 in. minimum clearance from rivet head to bottom of sprocket tooth. Seal new rivets on both sides using a solvent-proof sealer.

Check starter clutch (23) teeth. If badly worn or damaged replace part as described in "Replacing Clutch Sprocket Needle Bearing and Starter Clutch."

Examine clutch gear oil seal (27) for wear or damage by expanding seal surface and carefully checking for hair-line cracks. If any wear or damage is evident, replace seal to insure oil-tight closure between end of clutch gear and release rod - left.

Replace clutch hub rubber "O" ring (18) if worn or damaged.

REPLACING CLUTCH SPROCKET NEEDLE BEARING AND STARTER CLUTCH (Fig. 4B-8)

To remove clutch sprocket needle bearings (21 or 21 A), washers (24 and 25) and starter clutch (23), remove oil seal (17) and rivets (22) from sprocket. Needle roller bearings (21 or 21 A) and roll pin (26) are press fit.

To reassemble clutch sprocket, press needle roller bearings in place pressing on "printed side of bearings only." Press single bearing (21A) in from inside of sprocket shell to a depth of .025 to .029 in. measuring from clutch shell inner face to edge of bearing.

Roll pin (28) correctly positioned, should extend .08 in. from sprocket face to top of pin.

On 1967 XLH model having 2 bearings (21), press first bearing in to a depth of .010 to .015 in. measuring from clutch shell to inner face of bearing. Then press other bearing flush against first bearing from starter clutch side.

Position washer (25) on roll pin. Temporarily select and insert variable-sized washer (24) in clutch sprocket. Washers are available in several sizes of .002 in. thickness difference. Lay starter clutch (24) on back plate. With plate held down under pressure, insert feeler gauge and measure clearance between variable-size washer and starter clutch. Select and try different variable size washers until .001 to .004 in. clearance is obtained.

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