Ordinarily the idle tube will remain in the body when the bowl nut is removed. If for any reason it should stick in the bowl nut, do not attempt to remove it from the nut.

If the tube remains in the body when the bowl nut is removed, remove it gently by moving the plug end of the tube back and forth, and pulling at the same time.

The nozzle (29) is screwed into the body and shoulders against the casting at the top. Use a good screwdriver for removing and replacing nozzle. Preferably grind a pilot on the end of a special screwdriver to fit the inside of the nozzle and grind the sides to clear the 3/8-24 thread hole. At the same time grind the blade to fit the nozzle slot. The slot is .051 in. wide.

Remove the high-speed needle valve extension housing (30) to free high-speed needle valve (31), packing nut (32) and packing (33).

Remove the high-speed metering plug or fixed jet (34) located directly opposite the high-speed needle valve hole.

Remove drain plug and gasket (35) and free idle passage tube (36).

(41) from carburetor body. CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR

idle bleed

Place all parts except gaskets and float in "Gunk Hydro-Seal." Wash and dry all parts with compressed air. Blow air through all passages. Never scrape carbon deposits from carburetor parts with knife or other steel instrument. Replace any gaskets that are badly worn or damaged.

Ordinarily a good cleaning in "Gunk Hydro-Seal" will be all that is necessary to clean out carburetor passages; however, if after considerable use a heavy "crust" forms, it may be essential to clean out passages with appropriate size drills. For this reason, all drill sizes needed for a complete carburetor cleaning operation are given throughout the cleaning, inspection and repair procedure.

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