Repairing Crankcase

cured originally by punching flywheel metal tight against the washer at several points. It is usually necessary to drill a small hole (1/8 in. or smaller) at the outer edge of the washer to permit getting a pointed tool underneath to pry it out. The hole is drilled only slightly deeper than the thickness of the washer to avoid removing more metal than necessary.

Before installing new washer, scrape outer edge of washer recess where metal was punched against it so new washer may seat fully against recess bottom. If washer does not seat fully, forked rod is not likely to have necessary clearance for sideplay.

Connecting rod lower races that are likely to clean up within the range of oversize bearing rollers and are otherwise in serviceable condition should be trued and sized with Connecting Rod Lapping Arbor, Part No. 96740-36.

Replace worn flywheel washers as follows: Washer is a close fit in recess in flywheel and is se

See Fig. 3E-23. Turn lap in lathe at 150 to 200 rpm. Adjust lap by means of adjusting nut to a snug but free fit in rod race. Clean lap before using, then

1. Sprocket shaft extension

2. Pinion shaft bearing snap ring

3. Pinion shaft bearing washer

4. Pinion shaft roller bearing (13)

5. Pinion shaft roller bearing retainer

6. Connecting rod and flywheel assembly

7. Sprocket shaft Timken bearing right half

8. Sprocket shaft oil seal

9. Sprocket shaft bearing spring ring (outer)

10. Sprocket shaft bearing spacer

11. Sprocket shaft Timken bearing left half

12. Sprocket shaft Timken bearing spacer

13. Sprocket shaft Timken bearing outer race

14. Pinion shaft bushing

15. Pinion shaft bearing bushing screw (2)

16. Sprocket shaft bearing spring ring (inner)

Figure following name of part indicates quantity necessary for one complete assembly.

Figure 3E-20. Crankcase and Flywheel Assembly - Exploded View

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Figure 3E-21. Removing Bearing from Sprocket Shaft

Figure 3E-21. Removing Bearing from Sprocket Shaft apply fine lapping compound (No. 220 grit grinding compound mixed with oil) to lap. A loose lap will "bell mouth" bearing race so it must be kept just snug at all times. To avoid grooving or tapering lapped surface in rod, work rod back and forth the full length of the lap holding rod as near race as possible. Lap rods individually.

When rods are lapped true and all traces of pit marks or grooving are cleaned up, wash rods and blow dry. Surface should have a soft velvety appearance and be free of shiny spots.

See Fig. 3E-22. Assemble pinion shaft (11) to right flywheel. Wipe shaft and flywheel tapers perfectly clean and free from oil. Insert key (12) in key way and position flywheel over pinion shaft held in copper vise jaws. Tighten nut (9) very tight using Crank Pin and Flywheel Nut Wrench, Part No. 94546-41. If necessary, tighten nut a little more to make lock plate (8) notches line up with corners of the nut with the lock washer screw hole in alignment. Never loosen nut to achieve this register. Never use length of pipe over handle of crank pin nut wrench. Handle length has been determined by strength of average man and is designed to give nut suitable tension with only this specific handle length used.

Repeat above operation to assemble crank pin nut with Flywheel Nut Wrench.

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