Yamaha Yzf750r Fuel Pump Torque Settings

22.7 The sidestand switch is secured by two screws (arrowed)

good, check the wiring between the various components (see the Wiring Diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

Renewal

4 The clutch switch is mounted on the underside of the clutch lever bracket.

5 Disconnect the wiring connector (see illustration 23.2), then remove the screw and detach the switch.

6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

24 Relay assembly -

check and renewal Jk

Starter circuit cut-off relay

Check

1 The starter circuit cut-off relay is part of the safety circuit which prevents or stops the engine running if the transmission is in gear whilst the sidestand is down, and prevents the engine from starting if the transmission is in gear unless the sidestand is up and the clutch lever is pulled in.

2 The starter circuit cut-off relay and its diodes are contained within the relay assembly mounted on the front of the battery box below the tank rear mounting on YZF750R and SP models, and on top of the fuel filter, which is just behind the fuel pump, on YZF1000R models (see illustrations). Remove the fuel tank for access (see Chapter 4).

24.2a Relay assembly (arrowed) -YZF750R and SP models

23.2 Clutch switch wiring connector (A) and mounting screw (B)

3 Disconnect the relay wiring connector and remove the relay. Refer to the wiring diagram for your model (see end of chapter) and the following procedures:

4 To check the operation of the relay, connect a meter set to the ohms x 100 range, or a continuity tester, between the blue and blue/white wire terminals of the relay. No continuity should be shown. Now using jumper wires connect a fully charged 12V battery to the relay's black/yellow and red/black wire terminals (positive (+ve) lead to red/black and negative (-ve) lead to black/yellow). The meter should show continuity with battery voltage applied.

5 On YZF750R and SP models a figure is provided for the cut-off relay resistance. Connect a meter set to the ohms x 100 range between the black/yellow and red/black wire terminals of the relay. The figure given in the Specifications at the beginning of this chapter should be obtained.

6 The diodes contained within the relay assembly can be checked by performing a continuity test. Refer to the appropriate wiring diagram at the end of this chapter and connect the meter (set to the ohms function) or continuity tester across the wire terminals for the diode being tested. The diode should show continuity in one direction and no continuity when the meter or tester probes are reversed. If the diode shows the same condition in both directions it should be considered faulty.

7 If the cut-out relay and diodes are proved good, yet the starting system fault still exists check all other components in the starting

24.2b Relay assembly -YZF1000R models

25.3a Horn wiring connectors (A) and mounting bolt (B) -YZF750R and SP models

circuit (ie the neutral switch, side stand switch, clutch switch, starter switch and starter relay) as described in the relevant sections of this Chapter. If all components are good, check the wiring between the various components (see Wiring Diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

Renewal

25.3b Horn wiring connectors (A) and mounting bolt (B) -YZF1000R models should come on, indicating that the oil level has dropped as it is being pumped round the engine. If the light does not come on, stop the engine and check the bulb (see Section 17). If the bulb is good, check for continuity in the wire between the sensor bullet connector and the loom side of the instrument cluster wiring connector. Also check for continuity between the cluster side of the connector and the bulb holder.

3 To check the sensor, remove it from the sump (see Steps 5 and 6 below). Connect one probe of an ohmmeter or continuity tester to the sensor wire and the other probe to its base. With the sensor in its normal installed position (wiring at the bottom), there should be continuity. Turn the sensor upside down. There should be no continuity. If either condition does not occur, replace the sensor with a new one.

4 To check the relay, remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4), then disconnect the relay wiring connector and release it from its holder (see illustrations). Set a multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale and connect the positive (+ve) probe to the red/blue wire terminal, and the negative (-ve) probe to the black terminal. There should be no continuity. Leaving the meter connected, and using a fully-charged 12 volt battery and two insulated jumper

8 The relay assembly is mounted on the front of the battery box below the tank rear mounting on YZF750R and SP models, and on top of the fuel filter, which is just behind the fuel pump, on YZF1000R models (see illustration 24.2a or b). Remove the fuel tank for access (see Chapter 4).

9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Fuel pump relay

10 The fuel pump relay is housed within the relay assembly. Refer to Chapter 4, Section 15 for test details.

011 level sensor resistor

11 The oil level sensor resistor is housed within the relay assembly. Refer to Section 26 of this chapter for test details.

check and renewal ^

Check

1 If the horn, doesn't work, first check the fuse (see Section 5) and the battery (see Section 3).

2 The horn is mounted on the bottom yoke. Remove the fairing for best access to it (see Chapter 8).

3 Unplug the wiring connectors from the horn (see illustrations). Using two jumper wires, apply battery voltage directly to the terminals on the horn. If the horn sounds, check the switch (see Section 19) and the wiring between the switch and the horn (see Wiring Diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

4 If the horn doesn't sound, replace it with a new one.

Renewal

5 The horn is mounted on the bottom yoke. Remove the fairing for best access to it (see Chapter 8).

6 Unplug the wiring connectors from the horn (see illustration 25.3a or b). Unscrew the bolt securing the horn and remove it from the bike (see illustration or 25.3a or b).

7 Install the horn and securely tighten the bolt. Connect the wiring connectors to the horn. Install the fairing (see Chapter 8).

26 Oil level sensor and relay -

check, removal and installation ^

Check

1 With the ignition switch ON and the kill switch in the 'RUN' position, the oil level warning light should not come on, indicating that the oil level is good. If the light does come on, check the oil level (see Daily (pre-ride) checks). If the oil level is good, check the sensor and relay (see Steps 3 and 4).

2 Start the engine. The oil level warning light

26.4a Oil level sensor relay (arrowed) -YZF750R and SP models
26.4b Oil level sensor relay (arrowed) -YZF1000R models

26.8 Free the wiring from its clamp 26.10 Use a new O-ring when installing the 27.2a Starter relay (arrowed)-

(arrowed) then unscrew the bolts and sensor YZF750R and SP models remove the sensor

26.8 Free the wiring from its clamp 26.10 Use a new O-ring when installing the 27.2a Starter relay (arrowed)-

(arrowed) then unscrew the bolts and sensor YZF750R and SP models remove the sensor wires, connect the battery positive (+ve) lead to the brown wire terminal, and the negative (-ve) lead to the black/red wire terminal. There should now be continuity shown on the meter. If the relay doesn't behave as stated, replace it with a new one.

5 A resistor is fitted inside the relay assembly (see Sec 24) to stabilise the signals to the oil level warning light, thus preventing it flickering when cornering or braking hard. If there is a fault in the warning light operation which is not due to a faulty bulb or relay, the resistor value can be checked as follows.

6 Refer to Section 24 and disconnect the relay assembly from the machine. Using a multimeter set to the ohms x 100 range, connect its positive probe (+ve) to the black/red wire terminal and the negative (-ve) probe to the red/blue wire terminal on the relay. The value obtained should be similar to that given in the Specifications at the beginning of this chapter. If no continuity (infinite resistance) is indicated the resistor is open-circuit and the relay assembly should be renewed.

Removal

7 Drain the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

8 Trace the wiring back from the sensor and disconnect it at the single bullet connector. Free it from its clamp. Unscrew the two bolts securing the sensor to the bottom of the sump and withdraw it from the sump, being prepared to catch any residue oil (see illustration). Discard the O-ring as a new one must be used.

9 To remove the relay, remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4), then disconnect the relay wiring connector and release it from its holder (see illustration 26.4a or b).

Installation

10 Install a new O-ring onto the oil level sensor, then fit the sensor into the sump (see illustration). Tighten its bolts to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter.

11 Connect the wiring at the connector and check the operation of the sensor (see Steps 1 to 4 above). Secure the wiring in its clamp.

12 Fill the engine with oil (see Chapter 1).

13 Fit the relay into its holder and connect the wiring connector (see illustration 26.4a or b).

27 Starter relay - ^

check and renewal ^

Check

1 If the starter circuit is faulty, first check the main fuse (see Section 5).

2 Remove the rider's seat, and on YZF1000R models the left-hand side cover (see Chapter 8). The starter relay is located behind the battery on YZF750R and SP models, and on the left-hand side of the battery box on YZF1000R models (see illustrations). Lift the rubber terminal cover and unscrew the bolt securing the thick starter motor lead to the terminal marked 'M' (see illustration); position the lead away from the relay terminal. With the ignition switch ON, the engine kill switch in the 'RUN' position, and the transmission in neutral, press the starter switch. The relay should be heard to click.

3 If the relay doesn't click, switch off the ignition and remove the relay as described below; test it as follows.

27.2c Starter motor (A) and battery (B) lead terminals

27.2b Starter relay (arrowed) YZF1000R models

27.2c Starter motor (A) and battery (B) lead terminals

27.2b Starter relay (arrowed) YZF1000R models

28.3a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed)...

28.3b ... and remove the starter motor

27.7 Disconnect the relay wiring connector 28.2 Pull back the rubber cover and unscrew the terminal nut

(arrowed)

28 Starter motor -

removal and installation ^

27.7 Disconnect the relay wiring connector 28.2 Pull back the rubber cover and unscrew the terminal nut

(arrowed)

models the left-hand side cover (see Chapter 8). The starter relay is located behind the battery on YZF750R and SP models, and on the left-hand side of the battery box on YZF1000R models (see illustration 27.2a or b). Disconnect the battery negative (-ve) lead before removing the stater relay.

7 Disconnect the relay wiring connector (see illustration). Unscrew the two bolts securing the starter motor and battery leads to the relay and detach the leads (see illustration 27.2c). Remove the relay with its rubber sleeve from its mounting lug on the frame.

8 Installation is the reverse of removal. The starter motor lead connects to the terminal marked 'M', and the battery lead to the terminal marked 'B' (see illustration 27.2c). Make sure the terminal nuts are securely tightened. Connect the negative (-ve) lead last when reconnecting the battery.

Removal

1 Remove the rider's seat and the left-hand fairing side panel (see Chapter 8), and the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). Disconnect the battery negative (-ve) lead. The starter motor is mounted on the crankcase, behind the cylinder block.

2 Peel back the rubber terminal cover and unscrew the nut securing the lead to the starter motor (see illustration). Detach the lead.

3 Unscrew the two bolts securing the starter motor (see illustration). Draw the starter motor out of the crankcase and remove it from the machine (see illustration).

4 Remove the O-ring on the end of the starter motor and discard it as a new one must be used.

4 Set a multimeter to the ohms x 1 scale and connect it across the relay's starter motor and battery lead terminals (marked 'M' and 'B' respectively) (see illustration 27.2c). Using a fully-charged 12 volt battery and two insulated jumper wires, connect the positive (+ve) terminal of the battery to the red/white wire terminal on the relay, and the negative (-ve) terminal to the blue (YZF1000R) or blue/white (YZF750R and SP) wire terminal on the relay. At this point the relay should be heard to click and the multimeter read 0 ohms (continuity). If this is the case the relay is proved good. If the relay does not click when battery voltage is applied and indicates no continuity (infinite resistance) across its terminals, it is faulty and must be replaced with a new one.

5 If the relay is good, check for battery voltage at the red/white wire terminal on the loom side of the relay wiring connector when the starter button is pressed. If voltage is present, check the other components in the starter circuit as described in the relevant sections of this Chapter. If no voltage was present, check the wiring between the various components (see Wiring Diagrams at the end of this Chapter).

Renewal

6 Remove the rider's seat, and on YZF1000R

28.3a Unscrew the bolts (arrowed)...

28.3b ... and remove the starter motor

Installation

5 Fit a new O-ring onto the end of the starter motor, making sure it is seated in its groove, and smear it with grease.

6 Manoeuvre the motor into position and slide it into the crankcase (see illustration 28.3b). Ensure that the starter motor teeth mesh correctly with those of the starter idle/reduction gear. Install the mounting bolts and tighten them to the torque setting specified at the beginning of the Chapter (see illustration 28.3a).

7 Connect the lead to the starter motor and secure it with the nut (see illustration 28.2). Make sure the rubber cover is correctly seated over the terminal.

8 Connect the battery negative (-ve) lead and install the seat (see Chapter 8).

29 Starter motor - ^

disassembly, inspection Sy and reassembly ^

Disassembly

1 Remove the starter motor (see Section 28) (see illustration).

2 Note the alignment marks between the main housing and the front and rear covers, or

5 Main housing

10 Armature

29.3 Unscrew and remove the two long 29.5 Remove the rear cover 29.7 Remove the brushplate from the rear bolts cover

29.3 Unscrew and remove the two long 29.5 Remove the rear cover 29.7 Remove the brushplate from the rear bolts cover

29.1 Starter motor components

O-ring Long bolt Front cover Housing O-ring

5 Main housing

Bearing Oil seal Washer Shims

10 Armature

11 Bush

12 Brushes and brushplate

13 Rear cover

29.2 Note the alignment marks between the housing and end covers (arrowed)

make your own if they aren't clear (see illustration).

3 Unscrew the two long bolts, noting how the washers locate, and withdraw them from the starter motor (see illustration).

4 Wrap some insulating tape around the teeth on the end of the starter motor shaft - this will protect the oil seal from damage as the front cover is removed. Remove the front cover from the motor. Remove the cover O-ring from the main housing and discard it as a new one must be used. Remove the washer and shims from the front end of the armature shaft or the inside of the front cover, noting their correct fitted locations.

5 Remove the rear cover and brushplate assembly from the motor (see illustration). Remove the cover O-ring from the main housing and discard it as a new one must be used. Remove the shims from the rear end of the armature shaft or from inside the rear cover after the brushplate assembly has been removed.

6 Withdraw the armature from the main housing.

7 Noting the correct fitted location of each component, unscrew the terminal nut and remove it along with its washer, the insulating washers and the O-ring. Withdraw the terminal bolt and brushplate assembly from the rear cover (see illustration).

8 Lift the brush springs and slide the brushes out from their holders.

29.11a Continuity should exist between the commutator bars

29.11b There should be no continuity between the commutator bars and the armature shaft

29.18 Fit the shims onto the shaft

29.9 Measure the brush length

Inspection

9 The parts of the starter motor that are most likely to require attention are the brushes. Measure the length of the brushes and compare the results to the length listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). If any of the brushes are worn beyond the service limit, replace the brush assembly with a new one. If the brushes are not worn excessively, nor cracked, chipped, or otherwise damaged, they may be re-used.

10 Inspect the commutator bars on the armature for scoring, scratches and discoloration. The commutator can be cleaned and polished with crocus cloth, but do not use sandpaper or emery paper. After cleaning, wipe away any residue with a cloth soaked in electrical system cleaner or denatured alcohol. Measure the diameter of the commutator and compare it to the specifications (see illustration). If it has worn below the wear limit, renew the starter motor. Measure the depth of the insulating Mica below the surface of the commutator bars. If the Mica is less than the depth specified, scrape it away until the specified depth is reached.

11 Using an ohmmeter or a continuity test light, check for continuity between the commutator bars (see illustration). Continuity should exist between each bar and all of the others. Also, check for continuity between the commutator bars and the armature shaft (see illustration). There should be no continuity (infinite resistance) between the commutator and the shaft. If the checks indicate otherwise, the armature is defective.

12 Check for continuity between the terminal bolt and the housing (when assembled). There should be no continuity (infinite resistance).

13 Check the front end of the armature shaft for worn, cracked, chipped and broken teeth. If the shaft is damaged or worn, renew the armature.

14 Inspect the end covers for signs of cracks or wear. Inspect the magnets in the main housing and the housing itself for cracks.

15 Inspect the insulating washers and front cover oil seal for signs of damage and replace them with new ones if necessary.

Reassembly

16 Slide the brushes back into position in their holders and place the brush spring ends onto the brushes.

17 Ensure that the inner rubber insulator is in place on the terminal bolt, then fit the O-ring over the terminal. Insert the bolt through the rear cover and fit the brushplate assembly in the rear cover, making sure its tab is correctly located in the slot in the cover (see illustration 29.7). Fit the insulating washers over the terminal, then fit the standard washer and the nut.

18 Slide the shims onto the rear end of the armature shaft, then lubricate the shaft end with a drop of oil (see illustration). Insert the armature into the rear cover, locating the brushes on the commutator bars as you do, taking care not to damage them. Check that each brush is securely pressed against the commutator by its spring and is free to move easily in its holder.

19 Fit a new O-ring onto the main housing. Fit the housing over the armature and onto the rear cover, aligning the marks made on removal.

20 Apply a smear of grease to the lips of the front cover oil seal and fit a new O-ring onto the front of the main housing. Fit the washer onto the cover. Slide the shims onto the front of the armature shaft. Install the cover, aligning the marks made on removal. Remove the protective tape from the shaft end.

21 Check the marks made on removal are correctly aligned, then install the long bolts and tighten them securely (see illustrations 29.2 and 3).

22 Install the starter motor (see Section 28).

29.11a Continuity should exist between the commutator bars

29.10 Measure the diameter of the commutator

29.11b There should be no continuity between the commutator bars and the armature shaft

29.18 Fit the shims onto the shaft

29.9 Measure the brush length

30 Charging system testing -

general information and precautions

1 If the performance of the charging system is suspect, the system as a whole should be checked first, followed by testing of the individual components. Note: Before beginning the checks, make sure the battery is fully charged and that all system connections are clean and tight.

2 Checking the output of the charging system and the performance of the various components within the charging system requires the use of a multimeter (with voltage, current and resistance checking facilities).

3 When making the checks, follow the procedures carefully to prevent incorrect connections or short circuits, as irreparable damage to electrical system components may result if short circuits occur.

4 If a multimeter is not available, the job of checking the charging system should be left to a Yamaha dealer or automotive electrician.

31 Charging system -

leakage and output test

1 If the charging system of the machine is thought to be faulty, remove the seat (see Chapter 8) and perform the following checks.

Leakage test

Caution: Always connect an ammeter in series, never in parallel with the battery, otherwise it will be damaged. Do not turn the ignition ON or operate the starter motor when the ammeter is connected - a sudden surge in current will blow the meter's fuse.

2 Turn the ignition switch OFF and disconnect the lead from the battery negative (-ve) terminal.

3 Set the multimeter to the Amps function and connect its negative (-ve) probe to the battery negative (-ve) terminal, and positive (+ve) probe to the disconnected negative (-ve) lead (see illustration). Always set the meter to a high amps range initially and then bring it down to the mA (milli Amps) range; if there is a high current flow in the circuit it may blow the meter's fuse.

4 No current flow should be indicated. If current leakage is indicated (generally greater than 0.1 mA), there is a short circuit in the wiring. Using the wiring diagrams at the end of this Chapter, systematically disconnect individual electrical components, checking the meter each time until the source is identified.

5 If no leakage is indicated, disconnect the meter and connect the negative (-ve) lead to the battery, tightening it securely.

Output test

6 Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. Remove the seat (see Chapter 8).

7 To check the regulated voltage output, allow the engine to idle and connect a multimeter set to the 0 to 20 volts DC scale (voltmeter) across the terminals of the battery (positive (+ve) lead to battery positive (+ve) terminal, negative (-ve) lead to battery negative (-ve) terminal). Slowly increase the engine speed briefly to 5000 rpm and note the reading obtained. The regulated voltage should be as specified at the beginning of the Chapter. If the voltage is outside these limits, check the alternator/ regulator/rectifier (see Section 32).

Clues to a faulty regulator are constantly blowing bulbs, with brightness varying considerably with engine speed, and battery overheating.

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